I can't decide whether to shop for a Proof or a Mint State coin. Criteria Does NOT have to be Red No key dates, varieties, or toning (that would add to the price) Must be problem-free Can be raw or slabbed Target price range ~$200-$300 Ideally at the grade just before any dramatic price increases Would like it to hold its value and be easily liquidated if needed Miscellaneous Pricing Info Greysheet (not the final word but a good place to start) tells me that I should be able to go easily to an MS65 for 1898-1908 (~$135 + profit for seller). That money in a Proof would only get me an MS60. From what I've seen, flaws are more easily seen on Proofs, and I've read they are graded somewhat differently, although I don't quite understand that statement. Maybe I misread it. I might also like a nice PF64 Brown (~$240 + profit for seller). Questions 1) Does Greysheet give prices for MS66 or higher? Am I missing it somewhere? 2) When choosing MS or PF, does it simply come down to personal preference? 3) Are my price expectations reasonable? (Greysheet can be totally off sometimes) 4) Anything I'm missing? Thanks.
Personally, if you can afford a proof, I'd go for the proof. Much lower mintage, much, much cooler story, much more liquidity when/if you decide to sell. I'd try to find an old ANACS small holder with a CAM or DCAM designator on it.
As someone who is returning to collecting after being forced to 'liquidate' all my numerous holdings a year ago..I also am putting together a 'nice' Type collection along the lines you are.. I love the look of 'Proofs' but my experience is that they seem to add little or nothing to the resale value compared to MS grades...I think you're price range is reasonable for non-scarcities etc. and You should be able to get precisely what you want...especially bidding from some reputable auction houses like Heritage or almost anywhere else....and Heritage provides a coin value service so you can 'search' your choice of coin by grade and see the actual buyers price...and the estimated values at wholesale and retail.. I'll post a few I have recently purchased in the days and weeks to come...file photos since my photographic skills and equipment are something less than good LOL Proofs are a method of production but as far as i know the # grade roughly equates with a MS version...and proofs lose value rapidly with even the smallest imperfection through storage, handling and so on..That said, I still plan to have a few proofs in my Type set, mostly more recent issues for eye appeal...i.e. SBA, Ike's and others that are primarily only worth about face value....at least when you try to sell them LOL Keep in mind, I am not an 'expert' but merely a collector who is familiar with numismatics after years and decades of interest and collecting.. Best of luck Doug
Hmmm, I just noticed that in my haste to do two or more things at once I missed your IHC preference...I responded to a desire to put together a 'general' TYPE collection from the earliest issues (scarce and pricey in any form or grade) to the more recent issues...
Look at Heritage and Great Collections prices realized to see what you'll end up spending. Don't overlook early dates like 1864 and 1865 in 64RB, or the early 1880s. Since copper has a very wide range of eye appeal, make sure you're patient enough to get one you really like. For me, black spots are deal breakers, and while I may not the one eventually buying the coin from you, there are plenty of others that feel this way. An attractive 64RB with fairly even coloring and no spots should fit well in a type set. If you want a proof, make sure you look at it in hand, as the lack of the luster you get in a business strike can make brown proof copper look dead.
The important thing is that you like it. Look at a lot of IHCs, and keep in mind your budget while doing so. Once you've seen a few, you'll start forming opinions on what you really want. Then, go find it. My personal tastes run toward @messydesk's: even coloration and no carbon spots. I can appreciate a nice RD, RB, or BN, but the coloration has to be fairly even no matter what. If it were me, I think I'd go with a late-date RB.
I will each what others have said above me... I avoid RD copper on anything pre-1909. It simply seems to be unstable and buyer-beware. I'd personally go for a nicely toned MS64BN or RB level coin in that price range. I would also personally avoid proofs in that price range, mostly because a proof in the PF62 or lower grades generally isn't very eye appealing. Again, this is within the constraints of your budget - if you're really patient you might be able to find a very lovely high end PF64BN coin in your budget limits -- but be very picky! Most of all, have fun and buy the best you can afford that doesn't have any issues that bother you now. If it has even a small issue now, that will only grow with time owned.
I didn't know that there were cameos available in that price range (hence the original comment that I deleted), but the PCGS price guide does place some lower graded cameo coins in this range. I agree with you that I would look for a PF62-PF63 CAM. Cherry pick and find a coin without a lot of hairlines for the grade.
