I have these 3 at 1822- O 113 R3 1826 O 108A R1 and 1827 O 136 R 4 @okbustchaser @Treashunt and any others am I right
On general principles, don't depend on die cracks to authentic DMS (or die clashes either, FTM). Use the standard pickup points, T/I, edge of scroll in relation to DE and AM, stars to dentils, etc. Then use die cracks to verify your ID. How, for example, would you ID an early die stage prior to the die break if you can only use cracks for authentication?
I know. I realize that. That was the issue with the 26. I had a hard time finding distinctive features on it. The 27 the obvious to narrow it down was the low 50c almost to the rim the 1822 it was the date and the stars that helped the 26 nothing obvious jumped out other than the cracks
I tend to do it the other way round. If you have obvious die cracks it makes narrowing down the possibilities much faster, and then use the standard PUP's to verify. I do agree on not using die clashes though as they can come and go, and any two pairs of dies that clash will tend to have similar clashmarks. This can lead to confusion.
