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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Insider, post: 4658519, member: 24314&quot;]GDJMSP, posted: &quot;Have I ever said - Thank You Mike ! - for all the typing you save me ? Well, if I have, I haven&#039;t said it enough !</p><p><br /></p><p>Thank You Mike ! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><i>I&#039;d rather have your first LIKE.&nbsp; Or at the least put the &quot;!&quot; where it belongs!</i> <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Dynoking, posted: &quot;The coin has a nice strike. There Is disagreement over rub or wear on the high spots. I’m on the rub side. This should put the coin in MS territory. My concern is luster. I trying to up my game. How can one tell (from a picture and in hand) if there is luster under the toning?&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p><i>You need to tip and rotate the coin under a bright light.&nbsp; This usually cannot be done in an image.&nbsp; </i></p><p><br /></p><p>whopper64, posted:&nbsp; &quot;...Has anyone noticed with Indian Head cents that many of the NGC/PCGS slabbed coins are way over-graded?&nbsp; <span style="color: rgb(179, 0, 0)">Obvious wear on high points (both obverse and reverse) seem to be ignored</span> as the coins are given an MS grade.&nbsp; I realize that some of the Indian Head cents are not the best strikes, but wear is not a weak strike.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p><i>Brown copper coins are often hard to grade because when they get wear their brown surface turns <b><span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 0)">BROWN</span></b> - just a little darker.&nbsp; Like everything else they do, the TPGS often ignore the rub on attractive Indians.&nbsp; </i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><i>This is a fact:&nbsp; ANYONE who cares to examine coins closely under FOLORESCENT LIGHT using a stereomicroscope set at low power 7-10X can EASILY &amp; QUICKLY tell the difference between weak strike, friction wear, and stacking rub - even under toning!&nbsp; Once learned with the scope, a simple 7-10X hand lens is all that is needed 99% of the time to ID each. </i></p><p><i><br /></i></p><p><i>The key is the FLORESCENT LIGHT.&nbsp; Now you know why incandescent light is recommended by 99.999% of professional numismatists. It only lets you see half of the grading equation.&nbsp; I learned to use BOTH on the same coin before reaching an opinion of its grade/authenticity.</i>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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