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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Bill in Burl, post: 875272, member: 23692&quot;]All coins do not need to be certified, as it costs a good little piece of change to get it done, especially in lots of less than 100.&nbsp; There are many people who unwittingly spend more on the certification itself than the coin will ever be worth.&nbsp; Take your coin to a large coin show in the area and show it to a couple dealers .... Jeff Zarit from Dallas is one possible that I would recommend in your area.&nbsp; Certification is not for everyone.&nbsp; Unless the price for the worst grade you think that you will receive is 10X the price that they can be bought for at auction or wholesale (not book-price retail), it&#039;s not worth the $$, trouble and effort to get it graded. The same 10X rule should apply to how much you have into it vs what you can actually sell it for.&nbsp; If you luck into a deal and buy a $100 book-value coin for $20 at an ill-attended auction or store, here is a scenario.&nbsp; You mail the coin to a TPG for $15 for a single coin (many are higher), paying postage and any taxes/fees ($5).&nbsp; You get it back wrapped in its plastic coat and shop it around to dealers, and your top offer for it is $35 (most dealers or educated buyers will pay about 30-50% of published retail (book) price, unless they are scarce and it might go to 60%.&nbsp; You have $40 tied up in a coin worth only $35 that you&#039;ll have to wait at least 10 years just to break even.&nbsp; Keep your $20 coin and learn how to grade yourself.&nbsp; Spend your next $100 on the start of a reference library so that you can become the expert.&nbsp; Reference books with benefit you more financially and numismatically in the long run than any Certified coin or Grading company will ever be.&nbsp; A certified coin is worth no more than a raw one to a dealer or educated buyer, unless your collecting area is extremely high-end stuff or you are selling coins that are not in-hand for the buyer to see.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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