This is just my idea for how they should be made: Two sheets of lexan, with the viewing areas recessed so they don't scratch as easily on a flat surface. For the middle layer. A good, flat, black, stretchy foam/rubber. A little undersize so the coin fits snugly like the BCW holders. Instead of cheap lexan screws, nylon or stainless steel posts.
Man, I'm sorry you're going through the runaround with these guys. I didn't remember them being this uptight ten years ago, they used to pride themselves on a quality product.
Most Home Depots have a metal cabinet in the hardware section that conains nylon screws, washers and nuts. They do cost more than the metal ones. While you are there, look at their lexan sheet materials. It does take some practice, but I found it no more difficult than cutting glass. The holes can be drilled if done slowly. If you are near or in a school/college with an industrial arts dept, you might ask if anyone knows how. Often, some of the science departments have a technician that builds specialized lexan cages, or experimental apparatus, and they may be able to help.
So while the OP is waiting on a sales person to get back from vacation, he could have likely called the place he bought it from and had another replacement on the way but it seems he's just trying to avoid shipping costs, which I was just trying to say is LIFE when buying things online to be shipped rather than you picking up in person. Unless it's high dollar value items, most retailers aren't gonna front return shipping if defective. Or he could do what every other person would do, go to the local hardware store and get replacement screws like you said which is likely the best option to save money, time, resources, etc.
The screws keep the outer panels elevated off of flat surfaces. I know this sounds silly, but did you assemble the layers properly? On one of the sides of the holder there is a diagonal line that should cross all three layers If a layer is turned around or flipped over the screwpost holes may not line up quite right.
Never had a problem with the few I have used - of course with what I collect several had to be resized a little larger. Then I found ring type airtites and use them. I also found the rings are good to cut up and use as shims for my albums. If you do not want to pay return shipping then just chalk it up as a learning experience and move on. Find another holder that might work better. No way would I force anything I collect into one of their holders - and in some cases nothing will work for the varying size for the older coins. At least with ring type airtites I could go smaller or even trim one a little.
Detecto - I had the same problems with a Capital Plastics cents type set. The holes for the large cent and the Flying Eagle really weren't big enough for the coins to fit, especially the Flying Eagle. I tried 3 different FE cents, with the same result. I got all but one of the screws in, and the 4th broke as I was putting in it. A day later the head popped off of one screw, sitting on a shelf - pressure from the FE cent not being totally flat I guess. I got some extra plastic screws, and one of 2 that I tried wasn't made correctly and I couldn't get the threads on the screw to go into the post section of the 2-part connector. I've got 4 other different CP type sets to put together, and I'm waiting for my back-ordered metal screws, before I even attempt the nickels, dimes, quarters & halves. Now I know why the metal screws & posts are on back-order everywhere! I'm totally unimpressed with the current quality of the Capital Plastics holders! :rollling:
I too had to find a "gentle" way to pound the coins in the holder. Good thing they weren't my highest quality coins.
I have removed the posts made by a couple of members that step over the line of the forum rules. Any more such posts made by either of you will have result in infractions being given. Only warning there's gonna be.
Having worked in manufacturing for forty plus years, it's easy to see that overall quality decreases once you outsource an item. Plastic screw/posts should strip long before they break, unless made with inferior materials. And I think we all know quality control is lacking; hole diameters in lexan should be easily held within .001". Of course, there's always a problem with older coins and diameter variations... especially large cents.
In my case the Flying Eagle cent was the biggest problem. The 1849 large cent was tight, but wasn't anywhere near the problem that the FE was. Had the same issue with 3 different FE cents. I think I'd rather have had the problem that Detecto had with the loose fitting half dime. No problem with the plastic screws stripping the threads - if they are tightened even a tiny bit too much the screw head pops right off.
Sorry - I missed your post. I've looked at mine several times and can't see the diagonal line(s) you mentioned. Either I'm not seeing it or maybe the newer holders no longer have it?
I just used a knife to make the hole slightly larger. I would never pound or work any coin into the hole. It took about 15 minutes, but the coin fit nicely at that point. Then I had to shim another - that was when I decided I like the ring type airtites better.
I can't believe a thread like this got as heated as it did. lol Oh well. I have several capital plastics holders and have never had a problem. This rant would not prevent me from buying another. Sometimes there's just a defective product. You could get another one and it may be fine. Also, coins don't always have perfect diameters. One drilled hole might work perfectly for one coin and not for another. Tighter tolerances probably wouldn't even matter. Have you ever thought of this?
Thanks for the knife idea. I'll try that if I have any more problems, especially since I'll be getting into higher grade coins, and I don't want to be pounding them in.
I agree with that - why I tried 3 different Flying Eagles - but all were too big in diameter to fit properly. I think it's a problem with at least the holder that I have.