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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;cladking, post: 8130483, member: 68&quot;]I&#039;ve &quot;uncleaned&quot; thousands of coins.&nbsp; It&#039;s a complex flow chart but they are really pretty simple steps once you get a little experience.&nbsp; Copper works best and silver less so.&nbsp; Nickel and cu/ni are hardest.&nbsp; First you try to figure out why it looks cleaned.&nbsp; If there is &quot;mechanical damage&quot; then it will require a mechanical solution.&nbsp; &quot;Polishing&quot; for instance is mechanical and the coin will have to be worn down below the current surface.&nbsp; This can take one to five grades depending on the severity of the damage and whether or not the polishing extends to all the low spots.&nbsp; Most &quot;cleaning&quot; is more a chemical damage and all it really needs is color change.&nbsp; Start by making sure the coin is clean and stable so it doesn&#039;t spot.&nbsp; Then it&#039;s simply a matter of exposing it to harsh conditions like a furnace where there are dust, fumes, and heat. Periodic light abrasion helps so shake it with a bunch of other coins once in a while.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Thee are various means to speed it up but any coin carried as pocket change will look normal in time.&nbsp; It&#039;s very easy to spend or lose these pocket pieces though.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Now days people pay good money for worn out coins but I can&#039;t wear them out like I did in my youth.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Any &quot;uncleaning&quot; will remove at least one whole grade.&nbsp; Anything that adds a grade or doesn&#039;t remove a grade&nbsp; is &quot;doctoring&quot; which is even worse than &quot;cleaning&quot;.&nbsp;&nbsp; I always joked that the box of coins on my furnace was a &quot;hospital&quot; but the coins that were &quot;discharged&quot; were always a little worse for wear.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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