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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Lehigh96, post: 1106625, member: 15309&quot;]Greg,</p><p><br /></p><p>Axial lighting is a fine technique but one that really should only be necessary for the most elusive toned coins.&nbsp; Most toning can be captured using direct lighting as long as you have a copy stand and multiple lights.&nbsp; As you know, all of my photos are the result of a point &amp; shoot with two fluorescent lights.&nbsp; Here is a link that explains my method in more detail.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://www.coinforums.com/f15/what-best-method-photo-slabbed-coin-561/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.coinforums.com/f15/what-best-method-photo-slabbed-coin-561/" rel="nofollow">http://www.coinforums.com/f15/what-best-method-photo-slabbed-coin-561/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>All of your photos show the same flaw.&nbsp; You are not getting enough light on the surface of your coins.&nbsp; If you are using only one light, you will need at least one more and possibly a third light for deeply toned coins.&nbsp; I have found that even light toning can be very difficult to capture and it the ability to capture the color is related much more to the luster rather than the toning.&nbsp; Take this coin for example.&nbsp; It is just some simple powder blue &amp; gold, but it is very difficult to capture.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Jefferson%20Nickels%20Full%20Steps/JN1943-DNGCMS67StarwLabel.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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