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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;brg5658, post: 1284482, member: 29751&quot;]As you could tell from the coins I posted, 4 of the 5 were in slabs when I shot them.&nbsp; The conder token was raw.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;m not sure why the point and shoots would have more problems with the slabs than a big clunky DSLR, unless you (Todd) are suggesting that putting a polarizer filter on the lens may help with glare or something?&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>I don&#039;t use any fancy axial lighting (never have, never will).&nbsp; Usually I use diffused light just because I prefer a softer look and because it brings out detail in coins.&nbsp; Others use mostly direct lighting and sometimes blow out (all white) stripes where the cartwheel luster is showing.&nbsp; It&#039;s a personal preference, and certain types of light (diffused or direct) work better or worse on certain types of metal compositions.&nbsp; If you haven&#039;t picked up the Mark Goodman numismatic photography book like lkeigwin suggested, that&#039;s also a worthwhile $20 purchase.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;m not a pro, so I&#039;m just offering a feasible alternative to the super-spendy DSLR options.&nbsp; blu62vette is a pro, and lkeigwin has super nice photos, so if you want to go that route you can definitely get superior images to mine.&nbsp; I have shot with Canon point and shoots and Panasonic point and shoots.&nbsp; The Canon processors seem to be of superior quality, so I&#039;d stick with industry standard of Canon or Nikon no matter whether you go DSLR or point and shoot.&nbsp; Just my 2 cents. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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