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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;lkeigwin, post: 1284182, member: 30400&quot;]Any D-SLR will do. The macro lens should be at least 100mm. I started with 50, moved to 100, and now routinely use 180mm. The smaller lenses are useful for whole-slab shots.</p><p><br /></p><p>Buy a remote shutter release. It&#039;s inexpensive. I also bought an AC adapter so I don&#039;t have to swap and charge batteries.</p><p><br /></p><p>How are you planning on stabilizing the camera? I messed with a tripod for a while. Clumsy. Then a desktop tripod. Better, but not strong enough for the weighty D-SLR and long macro. Finally settled on a copy stand. I&#039;ve seen some on ebay for around $150. I bought &quot;new&quot; and spent much more.</p><p><br /></p><p>If your copy stand doesn&#039;t have rails for lighting then buy a couple of cheap gooseneck lamps and screw-in halogen flood lamps, like the GE PAR 30&#039;s. You will get the best results from halogen, not Ott&#039;s, GE Reveal, fluorescent, etc. Others will differ but trust what you hear from those who shoot professionally. (See <a href="http://browncopper.com/Lighting_shootout.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://browncopper.com/Lighting_shootout.html" rel="nofollow">http://browncopper.com/Lighting_shootout.html</a> )</p><p><br /></p><p>You&#039;ll need post-processing software, maybe the most important element. I use a Mac which is great for creativity and has some awesome apps. There&#039;s a lot of free or cheap PC stuff you can get by with.</p><p><br /></p><p>Buy the book, read and study it: Mark Goodman&#039;s Numismatic Photography.</p><p><br /></p><p>Coin photography is not only fun (sometimes frustrating) but it will improve your eye and grading skills if you really get into it.</p><p>Lance.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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