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<p>[QUOTE="Leadfoot, post: 538077, member: 2972"]Again, I suspect the photo/lighting is fooling you -- either that or you're not familiar with how the TPGs classify these coins....</p><p><br /></p><p>Might I suggest spending some time looking at Heritage and Teletrade pictures of non-CAM, CAM, and DCAM coins and you should be able to start to see where the cutoff is for CAM and DCAM coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>Next, you have to be familiar with the different photography techniques used by sellers that make the photos appear like the coin is more cameoed than it really is -- unforunately there's no good site I've seen that describes it, but in this thread you have two good data points to start. You have to be careful of e-bay photographs that exhibit either (a) diffused light [like the first coin], or (b) overexposure [like the second coin] -- as they both will cause the average collector to overestimate the level of cameo.</p><p><br /></p><p>Respectfully submitted, hoping to help...Mike[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Leadfoot, post: 538077, member: 2972"]Again, I suspect the photo/lighting is fooling you -- either that or you're not familiar with how the TPGs classify these coins.... Might I suggest spending some time looking at Heritage and Teletrade pictures of non-CAM, CAM, and DCAM coins and you should be able to start to see where the cutoff is for CAM and DCAM coins. Next, you have to be familiar with the different photography techniques used by sellers that make the photos appear like the coin is more cameoed than it really is -- unforunately there's no good site I've seen that describes it, but in this thread you have two good data points to start. You have to be careful of e-bay photographs that exhibit either (a) diffused light [like the first coin], or (b) overexposure [like the second coin] -- as they both will cause the average collector to overestimate the level of cameo. Respectfully submitted, hoping to help...Mike[/QUOTE]
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