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<p>[QUOTE="jtlee321, post: 2166055, member: 73983"]Next time I set up my camera for taking images of coins, I'll take a photo of the setup. Right now, I'm using a Canon 60D and 70-200 2.8 non IS lens with a $35.00 extension tube I bought on Amazon. I am using two goos neck desk lamps I bought at Walmart using some LED bulbs I bought at Ikea. I am using a tripod to mount my camera and a oversized clip board on the floor to provide a flat sturdy surface to mount the lights and hold the coins. There are two lighting setups I use. The first is for most coins. I use both lights set at 10 and 2 o'clock. The hight depends on the surface of the coins. The second setup uses one light placed directly at 12 o'clock with a sheet of glass set at approximately 45 degrees. I place an object between the coin and the light so that there is no direct light from the source. The glass reflects the light straight down at the coin. This set up is used for showing toning. It does not do a great job for showing luster. I use live view and the zoom function in live view to manually focus the lens. Once I have the correct focus I set the camera to the 2 second self timer. This allows for any vibrations to subside when I push the shutter button. Also the live view mode prevents mirror slap, which causes vibrations throughout the camera and lens. When shooting at anything slower than 1/30th of a second, any vibration at all can cause the image to blur slightly.</p><p><br /></p><p>I am a professional photographer and have been taking photos for nearly 13 years now. Granted, coin photography is new to me, but the principals of photography stay the same. Here is a tip. All lenses have a sweet spot for sharpness with the given aperture. Most lenses are sharpest at the middle f- stops. So a lens with an aperture range of 4.5 - 22 will be sharpest around f8-11. I shoot all of my coins at f8-11 depending on the size of the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Here are a couple of examples of my images. The first are using the first setup with two lights.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]417469[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417470[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417471[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417472[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417473[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>And here are a couple using the second lighting setup to capture the surface patina and toning. The Indian and Lincoln Cent are the same coins you see above.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]417474[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417475[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417476[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417477[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="jtlee321, post: 2166055, member: 73983"]Next time I set up my camera for taking images of coins, I'll take a photo of the setup. Right now, I'm using a Canon 60D and 70-200 2.8 non IS lens with a $35.00 extension tube I bought on Amazon. I am using two goos neck desk lamps I bought at Walmart using some LED bulbs I bought at Ikea. I am using a tripod to mount my camera and a oversized clip board on the floor to provide a flat sturdy surface to mount the lights and hold the coins. There are two lighting setups I use. The first is for most coins. I use both lights set at 10 and 2 o'clock. The hight depends on the surface of the coins. The second setup uses one light placed directly at 12 o'clock with a sheet of glass set at approximately 45 degrees. I place an object between the coin and the light so that there is no direct light from the source. The glass reflects the light straight down at the coin. This set up is used for showing toning. It does not do a great job for showing luster. I use live view and the zoom function in live view to manually focus the lens. Once I have the correct focus I set the camera to the 2 second self timer. This allows for any vibrations to subside when I push the shutter button. Also the live view mode prevents mirror slap, which causes vibrations throughout the camera and lens. When shooting at anything slower than 1/30th of a second, any vibration at all can cause the image to blur slightly. I am a professional photographer and have been taking photos for nearly 13 years now. Granted, coin photography is new to me, but the principals of photography stay the same. Here is a tip. All lenses have a sweet spot for sharpness with the given aperture. Most lenses are sharpest at the middle f- stops. So a lens with an aperture range of 4.5 - 22 will be sharpest around f8-11. I shoot all of my coins at f8-11 depending on the size of the coin. Here are a couple of examples of my images. The first are using the first setup with two lights. [ATTACH=full]417469[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417470[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417471[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417472[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417473[/ATTACH] And here are a couple using the second lighting setup to capture the surface patina and toning. The Indian and Lincoln Cent are the same coins you see above. [ATTACH=full]417474[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417475[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417476[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]417477[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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