Calling good photographers: What is needed for a good setup

Next time I set up my camera for taking images of coins, I'll take a photo of the setup. Right now, I'm using a Canon 60D and 70-200 2.8 non IS lens with a $35.00 extension tube I bought on Amazon. I am using two goos neck desk lamps I bought at Walmart using some LED bulbs I bought at Ikea. I am using a tripod to mount my camera and a oversized clip board on the floor to provide a flat sturdy surface to mount the lights and hold the coins. There are two lighting setups I use. The first is for most coins. I use both lights set at 10 and 2 o'clock. The hight depends on the surface of the coins. The second setup uses one light placed directly at 12 o'clock with a sheet of glass set at approximately 45 degrees. I place an object between the coin and the light so that there is no direct light from the source. The glass reflects the light straight down at the coin. This set up is used for showing toning. It does not do a great job for showing luster. I use live view and the zoom function in live view to manually focus the lens. Once I have the correct focus I set the camera to the 2 second self timer. This allows for any vibrations to subside when I push the shutter button. Also the live view mode prevents mirror slap, which causes vibrations throughout the camera and lens. When shooting at anything slower than 1/30th of a second, any vibration at all can cause the image to blur slightly.

I am a professional photographer and have been taking photos for nearly 13 years now. Granted, coin photography is new to me, but the principals of photography stay the same. Here is a tip. All lenses have a sweet spot for sharpness with the given aperture. Most lenses are sharpest at the middle f- stops. So a lens with an aperture range of 4.5 - 22 will be sharpest around f8-11. I shoot all of my coins at f8-11 depending on the size of the coin.

Here are a couple of examples of my images. The first are using the first setup with two lights.


And here are a couple using the second lighting setup to capture the surface patina and toning. The Indian and Lincoln Cent are the same coins you see above.

 

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All I use is a Sony Cyber Shot point and shoot, no DSLR needed. I just stand over the coin and snap the image, takes seconds...

 

Another image using a simple point and shoot Sony Cyber shot with a few over head lights on my desk, simple clamp on $9 lights found at Walmart.

 

Good stuff guys... Thanks

 

Update:

I didn't want to go the DSLR way so I researched some cameras.... ended up on Canon Powershot G16 (free 32gb card), copy stand, and lights.

Apparently Powershot G16 has GREAT macro features. Will be here tomorrow.

 

I used to use a Canon Power Shot Pro back in the early 2000's and got excellent results, I am no longer a Canon person, I have switched to Sony, but with that said I am sure you will get great results with your new setup, good luck and we'll look forward to some images.

 

I use a simple point and shoot mounted on a tabletop tripod, and hold up a magnifying lens to to camera lens. I have one Jansjo light to work with. It's a pretty janky setup, but results seem to be decent.

 

@geekpryde ..........this thread makes a lot more sense to me today than it did one year ago.

 

To add......the 105mm is awesome!

 

So you guys just use cheapo lamps with soft CFL bulbs in there at 10 and 2?

 

Some folks do, but others use daylight color incandescent bulbs. The key is to adjust your camera's white balance to compensate for the type of lighting, whatever type you use.

 

That or shoot in raw and white balance is easily dealt with in post if it isn't 100% correct.