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<p>[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 691226, member: 16510"]<b>Once you have studied Class VI you will have no trouble.</b></p><p><br /></p><p>Once you have studied Class VI you will have no trouble.</p><p>The best one is 1943-P DDO-001 but I have found 1944-P, D, and S, 1945-P, 1946-P Class VI doubled dies. Recently I think I found an 1989-D with this type doubling but a lessor degree to be sure. The key is the huge or extra thickness to the doubling - it's as if the letters got fat and rounded.</p><p>Bill is right - the coin in hand must look exactly like the know variety, not just sort of or close. That's the great thing about this study - every coin struck with that die (doublED die) will look the same except for die state and that's another disscussion altogether.</p><p><b>Remember this is exactly why it is called a doublED die and not "double die" - has nothing to do with when the coin was struck and everything to do with how the die was made.</b>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 691226, member: 16510"][b]Once you have studied Class VI you will have no trouble.[/b] Once you have studied Class VI you will have no trouble. The best one is 1943-P DDO-001 but I have found 1944-P, D, and S, 1945-P, 1946-P Class VI doubled dies. Recently I think I found an 1989-D with this type doubling but a lessor degree to be sure. The key is the huge or extra thickness to the doubling - it's as if the letters got fat and rounded. Bill is right - the coin in hand must look exactly like the know variety, not just sort of or close. That's the great thing about this study - every coin struck with that die (doublED die) will look the same except for die state and that's another disscussion altogether. [B]Remember this is exactly why it is called a doublED die and not "double die" - has nothing to do with when the coin was struck and everything to do with how the die was made.[/B][/QUOTE]
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