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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Insider, post: 2296436, member: 24314&quot;]TubeRider,</p><p><br /></p><p>Loss of original luster and surface is easy to see when you know what to look for and how to examine the coin (J.P. Martin says to make it &quot;light dynamic&quot;).</p><p><br /></p><p>Each of us needs to decide how much &quot;luster loss from friction or whatever&quot; is enough to make a coin YOUR PERSONAL AU.&nbsp; Grading is subjective.&nbsp; It can be demonstrated that even the standards change over time and &quot;conditions in the market economy.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>My standards are off the chart tough (similar to your 25c test) - no loss of original surface no matter what the cause.&nbsp; This is highly UNREALISTIC in the real world.&nbsp; Coins like this can be ultra rare and out of my $$$ (Capped Bust Half, Barber Half) but that is my standard.&nbsp; I don&#039;t teach or advocate this standard for anyone!&nbsp; The real world standard is set by the major dealers, auction prices, and TPGS.&nbsp; To be an informed, intelligent grader, you&#039;ll need to learn this standard by viewing coins in slabs.&nbsp; Made complicated by the fact that all MS-65&#039;s are not alike...LOL&nbsp; Strive to see everything there is to see on a coin so you can make an informed decision about your purchase.&nbsp; I commonly buy sliders or cleaned coins if I want them and the price is right but I don&#039;t get surprised later because I missed something like scratch hidden in the design by the toning.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>So...the amount of unoriginality you will accept on a coin will be up to you.&nbsp; Your personal standard may change the more experienced you get.&nbsp; Truly Uncirculated &quot;vintage&quot; coins are scarce.&nbsp; We need TPGS&#039;s to weed out the others.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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