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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Insider, post: 2296349, member: 24314&quot;]Dear TubeRider,</p><p><br /></p><p>Your lust for information inspires me want more posts from the advanced members on this site such as SuperDave. Later today, I&#039;ll print the opinions about stacking/wear/roll rub I promised to send to you; but your recent test on quarters is just as important. </p><p><br /></p><p>Each of us develops their own set of &quot;personal grading standards&quot; all dependent on experience, how well you studied the subject, the knowledge of those around you giving opinions, your eyesight, etc.&nbsp; It&#039;s your money so the more you know the better.&nbsp; When I got into the hobby there were no grading services, only 2 popular grading guide books + the Red Book using &quot;words alone.&quot;&nbsp; The coin business was like we imagine &quot;the Wild West&quot; to be.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>At that time &quot;No Trace (from whatever the reason) of Wear&quot; was allowed on an Uncirculated coin.&nbsp; The description of the grade conditions as printed in Penny Whimsy were very conservative.&nbsp; I have read that those standards lead some numismatists to develop &quot;Technical Grading&quot; for archival purposes.&nbsp; That way a coin could be graded the same each time it was seen as long as it remained in the same condition with no changes. </p><p><br /></p><p>Conservative grading was not acceptable to the marketplace.&nbsp; Along came &quot;Cabinet Friction&quot; and market acceptability in order to keep the value of pieces with a trace of wear (from whatever the reason) and have the Unc&#039;s everyone wanted.</p><p><br /></p><p>I could have answered you with just the following but I wanted to give you a little history first: </p><p>1. Grading is personal/subjective based on several factors.</p><p><br /></p><p>2. The amount of magnification used or the unaided eyesight of the grader can change the outcome.</p><p><br /></p><p>3. Grading has evolved (as the TPGS like to say).&nbsp; This means it has become more liberal in the last forty years.</p><p><br /></p><p>4. An experienced grader can find fault with just about any coin.&nbsp; I personally wish to see every hairline, hidden bag mark, spot, etc. when I examine a coin in hand.</p><p>That said, my conservative grading does not work in the coin market.&nbsp; So after I see everything, I need to BACK-OFF to assign a grade. </p><p><br /></p><p>5. As a beginner, it is good to be conservative; nevertheless you&#039;ll need to learn how the experts/professional dealers grade.</p><p><br /></p><p>6. I never had all the grading guides, online web guides, ANA Seminars/tapes, and professionally graded coins that new collectors of today have to speed the learning process.</p><p><br /></p><p>I applaud your search for perfection.&nbsp; The fact that you noticed the condition of all those raw coins at the show and especially the cleaning puts you way ahead of most, but keep the fun of the game in your search.&nbsp; Try not to get stuck on rub until you learn how it happened (from evidence on the coin) and what type/how much is allowed by the &quot;top-guns&quot; in the profession that set the standards for all of us.&nbsp; Take this advice from some kid who was banned from a coin shop for pointing out one of the coins in a case was buffed! </p><p><br /></p><p>PS I deleted any comments on &quot;slide marks&quot; and your experiment from this post because I don&#039;t wish to start a controversy with the experts.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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