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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;mikenoodle, post: 1396585, member: 307&quot;]ice, I thought that I was the only person to ever do this. Upon my return to coin collecting I started to assemble a 20th century type set but all of the coins had to be key dates and as close to unc as I could get.</p><p><br /></p><p>As far as the set goes, I eventually realized that in order to complete it I would need deeper pockets than I could ever afford. The 1901-S Barber Quarter is a REALLY expensive coin!</p><p><br /></p><p>That said, when I eventually sold the set I had no problem selling the key date coins. There is a pretty strong demand for key dates in up and in down markets. Selling sets is difficult and the prices people pay for them are largely based on the key dates contained within them. I think that it&#039;s hard to go wrong with key date coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>There is one HUGE piece of advice that I would offer to you, however. If you&#039;re going to buy coins (any kind of coins) key date or not, know what you&#039;re buying. If you want a 16-D Mercury Dime, then you&#039;d better do some reading on them and look at a couple of dozen before you purchase any of them. You must be able to accurately grade them and assess their value before you can buy them or you will lose your shirt!!!</p><p><br /></p><p>When people assemble sets they have a learning curve. But with 45¢ and 75¢ coins, you can make some large mistakes and it won&#039;t really hurt you. Make a grade (or two) mistake on a key date and you&#039;ll likely lose big.</p><p><br /></p><p>Good luck on your pursuit, if I can help in any way, please let me know.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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