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<p>[QUOTE="Ed Zak, post: 26229, member: 824"]For buying raw coins on ebay...take the seller's grade and subtract 2 to 5 points for MS coins and for raw coins, subtract an entire grade (i.e., EF40 is really VF20 to 30).</p><p><br /></p><p>For selling raw coins, use good digital shots taken in a macro mode with indirect, non-flash light. As for grades, I use B.U. versus AU, or EF versus VF and state in my description that grading is a matter of opinion, so please take a look at my close up pictures and determine your own grade.</p><p><br /></p><p>With that said, that is the reason for the fascination and success of professionally graded coins. It is NOT the seller's opinion, but that of PCGS, NGC, ICG or ANACS (the top four and the most respected out of them all). You have a better idea of what you are buying and selling which helps in "sight, unseen" coin transactions.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Ed Zak, post: 26229, member: 824"]For buying raw coins on ebay...take the seller's grade and subtract 2 to 5 points for MS coins and for raw coins, subtract an entire grade (i.e., EF40 is really VF20 to 30). For selling raw coins, use good digital shots taken in a macro mode with indirect, non-flash light. As for grades, I use B.U. versus AU, or EF versus VF and state in my description that grading is a matter of opinion, so please take a look at my close up pictures and determine your own grade. With that said, that is the reason for the fascination and success of professionally graded coins. It is NOT the seller's opinion, but that of PCGS, NGC, ICG or ANACS (the top four and the most respected out of them all). You have a better idea of what you are buying and selling which helps in "sight, unseen" coin transactions.[/QUOTE]
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