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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;PaddyB, post: 1635327, member: 40017&quot;]It is rare for fake coins to fail on the magnet test - but still worth a try. Most are made of cupro-nickel alloys - the same as most modern white metal coinage.</p><p><br /></p><p>There are 3 main approaches I think to identifying fakes:</p><p><br /></p><p>1. The scientific approach. Measure diameter, thickness and weight and compare to what they should be - any significant discrepancy and you have your answer. If possible test the metal content using standard precious metal testing kits, although these will mark the coin, so usually a last resort.</p><p><br /></p><p>2. The accuracy approach. Check the designs against the books - the detail of the engraving, the shape of the letters, even the matching of denticles in the rim to features of the coin. Real coins do have recognised errors - look out for them, and compare any you find to those recorded. You are unlikely to be finding entirely new variations in an old coin, so any variation not recorded before should make you suspicious. In old coins particularly, it was a matter of national pride that their coins were well designed and made - poor manufacture is not the norm.</p><p><br /></p><p>3. The feel factor. After a while you will develop a feel for right and wrong - it is not infallible, but in many cases you will have subconsciously picked up an issue that one of the above methods will then confirm for you.</p><p><br /></p><p>Fakes come in a wide range of qualities. Many are glaringly obvious, and the ones in this thread so far come in that bracket. Some are much better, and the best will fool even the experts for a while.</p><p><br /></p><p>One final tip - at coin fairs, beware of confidently declaring some traders coin a fake. You may believe it so, but if the current owner believes it is genuine, you might earn yourself a thump on the nose![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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