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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;TypeCoin971793, post: 3298749, member: 78244&quot;]Some can, but can you? Looking at the coins themselves (ignore the holders for the time being), do you see an appreciable difference? If you do, does the increase in quality justify the increase in price? If not, then go with the lower grade.</p><p><br /></p><p>Focusing on the coin instead of the holder will allow you to find premium/undergraded coins for good prices. Ignoring the coin puts you at risk of buying an overgraded coin that would be very tough to recoup cost down the road.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Since you are cracking the coins out, I would suggest buying AU examples for coins which have huge premiums in the MS grades. Some raw storage methods could damage the surface of the coin resulting in a downgrade. The TPGs can be inconsistent, so you risk a downgrade when you resubmit the coins before you resell them. Don’t try selling the coins raw because no one will give you serious money for them. The slabs justify the price, which puts raw coins at a huge disadvantage.</p><p><br /></p><p>The smaller coins are faked much more often, so you are better off buying them already certified.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Check out AU-58’s and compare them to MS-62/63’s. Pick whichever maximizes the quality-to-price ratio. My points above about cracking out still apply.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Between MS-64 and MS-68, there is a very noticable difference in quality. MS-62/63/64 is less noticable. Usually, the only real difference between adjacent numbers in this range is price. Be picky and find quality specimens in the lower grades that look just as nice if not nicer than the higher grades. They are out there, but you will have to put in effort to search and learn.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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