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Buffalo Nickels And Acid. FAIL
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<p>[QUOTE="-jeffB, post: 1718959, member: 27832"]Please don't do anything irreversible to these nickels until you've studied a bit more. It's <i>really</i> easy to tell Type 1 (rounded mound on reverse) from Type 2 (flat ground with a recessed area underneath), even when the date is gone; there's no point in trying to "restore" a Type 1, because it can only be a 1913 coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Once you've gotten the hang of the acid treatment, you can start looking for rare dates; in a lot that size, you're likely to find at least a couple.</p><p><br /></p><p>When I was restoring a lot of dateless Buffs, I used standard white vinegar and patience. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> It took a few days for the dates to start coming up, but I also didn't have any catastrophic failures. DO NOT add salt -- it can trash the coins quickly and without much warning.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="-jeffB, post: 1718959, member: 27832"]Please don't do anything irreversible to these nickels until you've studied a bit more. It's [I]really[/I] easy to tell Type 1 (rounded mound on reverse) from Type 2 (flat ground with a recessed area underneath), even when the date is gone; there's no point in trying to "restore" a Type 1, because it can only be a 1913 coin. Once you've gotten the hang of the acid treatment, you can start looking for rare dates; in a lot that size, you're likely to find at least a couple. When I was restoring a lot of dateless Buffs, I used standard white vinegar and patience. :) It took a few days for the dates to start coming up, but I also didn't have any catastrophic failures. DO NOT add salt -- it can trash the coins quickly and without much warning.[/QUOTE]
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