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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Vess1, post: 912485, member: 13650&quot;]Well, it looks to be high MS.&nbsp; Hard to tell what the luster is exactly like from the pics.&nbsp;&nbsp; My avatar is a 38 D/S&nbsp; MS-66 that I found at a show.&nbsp; I compared it to a slabbed 65 that was there.&nbsp; The luster is just barely, slightly better on the 66.&nbsp;&nbsp; Out of the slabs, it&#039;d be a close call.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp; I think you almost have to look at them in various grades side by side as an example set to get an idea of how good they can be.&nbsp;&nbsp; The strike comes into play.&nbsp; The luster plays a role as well.&nbsp;&nbsp; 1938 was the last year and many people would have known this. Many were saved and kept in excellent condition as is often the case with last year of issues.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp; As for the mint mark, I&#039;ve heard of a D/D, a D/D/D variety and the D/S.&nbsp; It does look fat.&nbsp;&nbsp; Are you sure it&#039;s real?&nbsp;&nbsp; I can&#039;t say I&#039;ve ever seen a die crack on one of these.&nbsp; &nbsp; I have seen a raised piece of metal (spikes) on fakes though.&nbsp; The Chinese are in the business of making these nowadays.&nbsp; I&#039;d at least measure it with a caliper and weigh it.&nbsp;&nbsp; Some of the fakes are very good.</p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp; The diameter should be exactly 21.2 mm.&nbsp; Buffalos are one of the most consistantly made coins I&#039;ve ever measured.&nbsp; Very tight tolerance.&nbsp; Weight should be 5 grams.&nbsp; For starters.</p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp; Look at the D closely under a high powered loupe.&nbsp; Look for the edges of other D&#039;s where it may have been re-punched.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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