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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;John Burgess, post: 4855413, member: 105098&quot;]The key to the 1976 Bicentennial quarter is finding not only a coin free of marks and scrapes but also finding one that is fully struck. A clean obverse plus a fully-struck reverse equals a premium quality coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>On the reverse, you’ll find that most Bicentennial Quarters are not fully struck, specifically near the top of the drum. the &quot;ribs&quot; of the drum.</p><p><br /></p><p>most of them are like this the vertical drum ribs get weak towards the drum head:</p><p><img src="https://i.etsystatic.com/21032099/c/1906/1516/338/572/il/e3e8b9/2038505591/il_340x270.2038505591_n05y.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Ideally the reverse should be more like this NGC MS68 example picture:</p><p><img src="https://s3.amazonaws.com/ngccoin-production/us-coin-explorer/4836381-005rr.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Now you can have less marks and less drum and get to MS68, or more marks and more drum and get there too, but for top grade and real value to it that drum HAS to be completely struck and pretty much mark free. and that is rare indeed. MS66 is a $15 coin, MS67 is a $30 coin, MS68 is a $100 coin, MS69 is a $10,000 coin. MS70 doesn&#039;t exist yet.</p><p><br /></p><p>Not worth the fees for grading at MS67 even.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now, if the drum on the reverse is fully struck and looks as good as the obverse, it might be MS67 that&#039;s a pretty significant nick on Washington&#039;s lower neck but it can be overlooked or &quot;cancelled out&quot; if that drum is SOLID.</p><p><br /></p><p>I mean if you are going to do it, that&#039;s the info you need to know what to look for if you&#039;re into bicentennial quarters <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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