@Fred Weinberg and @mikediamond might be interested in this one. Let's first wait and see. Let's not jump to conclusions yet.
Well known Mint Error experts. Years of experience and both members here. This is a book by Fred Weinberg His website https://www.fredweinberg.com/
TPG. Third Party Graders Best are.. NGC - https://www.ngccoin.com/about/about-ngc/ PCGS - https://www.pcgs.com/services ANACS - https://www.anacs.com/?AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
I just look at the two 4's and they look different to me. And, of course, it hasn't been authenticated.
Finding one of these is equivalent to lottery odds, so getting it authenticated by a major Third party grader is required. That being said, it's going to cost at least $60 to do this and since lots and lots of plated/fake/Chinese counterfeits are out there, you want to be sure before you send it in. The TPGs will charge you whether it's real of fake. Some tips. You need to weigh it on a calibrated scale that reads to at least 0.01 grams. If it is nickel plated, or chrome plated with a nickel strike layer underneath, it will be attracted to a magnet, but depending on the plating, it may not be as strong as the steel used for the 1943 cents Check the edge. 1943 blanks were punched from zinc plated steel sheets. While the zinc protects the Obv and Rev, the steel is exposed along the edge. Depending on environmental conditions, the edge may dull or darken slightly compared to the other surfaces. If the edges are bright and shiny, that could be an indication that it was plated.