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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Marshall, post: 2622370, member: 21705&quot;]It&#039;s a familiar old friend in the S-131. If you look behind the hair ribbons, there is a die break (actually two) that fill in much like a CUD between the Minting of the S-229 and S-230. It shares the obverse with those and also a unique 1797 NC-8 (that reverse is shared with the S-143) which is also stemless. But the leaf at the base of the upright of (E)D confirm it&#039;s S-131 attribution. This is an R2+ or relatively common variety, though it has some extra appeal because it&#039;s stemless. It appears to have most of the legends and most of the dentils which are commonly worn off in lowest grades.</p><p><br /></p><p>Without seeing it in hand, I suspect somewhere between an AG3 for the most conservative and critical graders and VG10 for the least critical and owner adjustment. The funny thing about grading is that whether you grade conservatively or liberally, knowledgeable buyers and sellers usually find price easier to agree with than grade.</p><p><br /></p><p>The problem comes in with those less knowledgeable failing to understand the differences in grading and the dramatic effect condition has on value. This is particularly true with TPG (Third Party Graded) coins which are DETAIL graded. Treating them as equal in value by simply looking at a price guide designed for problem free coins leaves the uninitiated confused and suspicious.</p><p><br /></p><p>While not perfect, If you don&#039;t have the time or desire to do this, then eBay or some other low cost auction at least gets those knowledgeable to bid against each other to get you the best chance of real value. It&#039;s not perfect, but it&#039;s&nbsp; probably the best you can do without study.</p><p><br /></p><p>But if you go that route, use the best photos you can make or get.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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