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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;bhp3rd, post: 550375, member: 16510&quot;]<b>I&#039;m not sure I follow you but,,,</b></p><p><br /></p><p><i>The supply is there whether buy yearly from the mint, the secondary market, or a combination of the two. </i></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I know many, many part time and full time coin dealers and none of them do only what you suggest.&nbsp; The market for mint and proof set singles is not that great to say the least and coins from these sets are often ruined.</p><p>The way the most successful coin dealers I know do this:</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>1. They have a lot of different items including all aspects of collectible coins,&nbsp; such as, mint and proof sets, mint state and circ. examples of all series, graded and raw coins, key in many grades from each series, rolls, paper, bullion.&nbsp; With all this variety if one thing is not selling they have many more things to offer.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>2. They network a lot - they get to know people, make contacts, become an outlet for items from other dealers even before they buy them.&nbsp; Reputation is eveything in this hobby - a handshake is all it takes to insure complete trust from a <b>good</b> coin dealer</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>3. They make their money buying coins.&nbsp; Time and time again I&#039;ve heard it said that &quot;we make our money buying not selling coins&quot;.&nbsp; For a long time I was confused about this because it does not seem to make any sense but the knowlegable, profitable coin dealers always say the same thing.&nbsp; We make our money buying not selling.&nbsp; This is especially true in a retail shop as coins walk in to you - you don&#039;t have to pay retail or even wholesale just enough to satisfy the customer and secure the coins for future sale.&nbsp; After all the may sit there three years before they are sold so you must insure a greater margin.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>4. When doing appraisals be fair.&nbsp; Sometimes you have to pay more to get &quot;everything&quot; that is in that collection.&nbsp; You also need to be more generous especially if you think that customer may &quot;shop it around&quot; before they decide on you to sell it to.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>5. Most all dealers do shows regularly where they have an additional outlet to buy and sell, meet new customers and cater to existing ones.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>6. They all work very hard and long hours to put up coins, label and price them while tracking inventory and their expectations are not so great as to be unreasonable - they want to make &quot;overall&quot; about 10 to 15% and they keep it consistent.&nbsp; In other words they are more willing to move many items at less profit than a few items at a greater profit.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>7.&nbsp; Good dealers buy very little from the mint other than some bullion and current year sets.&nbsp; They don&#039;t need to most of that kind of stuff will always be available cheaper in a couple of years, often much cheaper.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>8. This is so often overlooked as if it should be a given but good dealers must learn to grade and know the diagnostics of key date coins.&nbsp; Instantly a good dealer will know small dates, true 09-s mint mark styles, clear &quot;S&quot;&#039;s, 22 no &quot;D&quot;&#039;s, doubled dies, over mint marks, Morgan &amp; Peace Vams, over-dates, condition rarities, whether a coins been cleaned or not and the most counterfeited coins.&nbsp; If you do not know all this and much more within 1 second of gazing at a given coin your already behind the curve.&nbsp; You also need to have looked at many hundred of thousands of coins over and over again to be proficient.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>There is no other way that I know how other than that mentioned above that any coin dealer will need to know before they ever start to become a &quot;coin Dealer&quot;.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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