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<p>[QUOTE="1stSgt22, post: 7497532, member: 116892"]Here are a few things that might answer some questions frequently asked by beginning collectors.</p><p><br /></p><p>· If you are really serious about collecting coins, the first thing you should consider, buying is a R. S. Yeoman, Red Book. It will provide a wealth in information and answer many of your questions! You don’t need a current edition! One that is 2 or 3 years old is fine.</p><p><br /></p><p>· You also might want to consider buying an inexpensive digital microscope for taking closeup pictures of coins you want to post.</p><p><br /></p><p>· When you post pictures of your coins, I recommend you post a full view of the obverse (front) and reverse, as well as a closeup of the area you’re are asking about. Also please provide a detailed comment/question that explains exactly what you are asking about.</p><p><br /></p><p>· Modern cents have an outer layer of copper over a core of zinc. This composition does not hold up and results in a seemingly endless number of anomalies on these coins!</p><p><br /></p><p>· The correct term to use when referring to doubling is “doubled die” not double die. Most of the coins you think are a doubled die are not! They will have some type of mechanical doubling that add absolutely no value to the coin other than as an example to refer to! A true doubled die variety is caused when the die is made, not when the coin is struck. Mechanical doubling happens when a coin is struck and is often caused by a problem with the die or striking process!</p><p><br /></p><p>· There is a difference between errors and varieties! Varieties are the result of intentional or unintentional changes to dies before coins are struck. Errors are unintentional mistakes or abnormalities made during the striking process.</p><p><br /></p><p>· There is only one year you need to look for a “Close AM” on cents. That year is 1992. There are 3 years to look for a “Wide A M” on cents. Those years are 1998, 1999, and 2000. If your cent doesn’t fit one of these years and A M positions, it’s a normal cent.</p><p><br /></p><p>· The mint mark on a coin tells where the coin was minted! Coins with a “P” or “<b>no mint mark</b>” were minted in Philadelphia, and coins with a “D” were minted in Denver. Coins with a “S” were minted in San Francisco, with a “W” at West Point, an “O” in New Orleans and a “CC” in Carson City”. There are others but these are the most common,</p><p><br /></p><p>· There are three websites you need to become very familiar with. They are Lincoln Cent Resource, Variety Vista and Wexler’s Coins and Die Varieties. They are great places to do your research!</p><p><br /></p><p>· Although it may be exciting to find a wheat cent, most wheat cents are not very valuable. However there a few rare cents that can be more expensive/valuable.</p><p><br /></p><p>· Until the year 1989 the mint mark was hand punched on dies. Some coins have repunched mint marks (RPM). An RPM is caused when the mint mark was hand punched on a die more than one time and the punch was not correctly aligned with the original mint mark!</p><p><br /></p><p>· There were occasions that coins were punched with two different mint marks. This is called an over mint mark (OMM). An OMM is when mint marks from two different mints were punched one on top of the other on the die. For example, a D over S.</p><p><br /></p><p>· Most serious coin collectors will emphatically tell you “DON’T CLEAN COINS”. Of course, there are exceptions (some don’t mind or even like cleaned coins) but that is a very good rule to follow! A coin that has been cleaned loses both value and desirability to most collectors.</p><p><br /></p><p>Please feel free to correct any mistakes you see and add any other information you think might help those new to this amazing hobby!!!![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="1stSgt22, post: 7497532, member: 116892"]Here are a few things that might answer some questions frequently asked by beginning collectors. · If you are really serious about collecting coins, the first thing you should consider, buying is a R. S. Yeoman, Red Book. It will provide a wealth in information and answer many of your questions! You don’t need a current edition! One that is 2 or 3 years old is fine. · You also might want to consider buying an inexpensive digital microscope for taking closeup pictures of coins you want to post. · When you post pictures of your coins, I recommend you post a full view of the obverse (front) and reverse, as well as a closeup of the area you’re are asking about. Also please provide a detailed comment/question that explains exactly what you are asking about. · Modern cents have an outer layer of copper over a core of zinc. This composition does not hold up and results in a seemingly endless number of anomalies on these coins! · The correct term to use when referring to doubling is “doubled die” not double die. Most of the coins you think are a doubled die are not! They will have some type of mechanical doubling that add absolutely no value to the coin other than as an example to refer to! A true doubled die variety is caused when the die is made, not when the coin is struck. Mechanical doubling happens when a coin is struck and is often caused by a problem with the die or striking process! · There is a difference between errors and varieties! Varieties are the result of intentional or unintentional changes to dies before coins are struck. Errors are unintentional mistakes or abnormalities made during the striking process. · There is only one year you need to look for a “Close AM” on cents. That year is 1992. There are 3 years to look for a “Wide A M” on cents. Those years are 1998, 1999, and 2000. If your cent doesn’t fit one of these years and A M positions, it’s a normal cent. · The mint mark on a coin tells where the coin was minted! Coins with a “P” or “[B]no mint mark[/B]” were minted in Philadelphia, and coins with a “D” were minted in Denver. Coins with a “S” were minted in San Francisco, with a “W” at West Point, an “O” in New Orleans and a “CC” in Carson City”. There are others but these are the most common, · There are three websites you need to become very familiar with. They are Lincoln Cent Resource, Variety Vista and Wexler’s Coins and Die Varieties. They are great places to do your research! · Although it may be exciting to find a wheat cent, most wheat cents are not very valuable. However there a few rare cents that can be more expensive/valuable. · Until the year 1989 the mint mark was hand punched on dies. Some coins have repunched mint marks (RPM). An RPM is caused when the mint mark was hand punched on a die more than one time and the punch was not correctly aligned with the original mint mark! · There were occasions that coins were punched with two different mint marks. This is called an over mint mark (OMM). An OMM is when mint marks from two different mints were punched one on top of the other on the die. For example, a D over S. · Most serious coin collectors will emphatically tell you “DON’T CLEAN COINS”. Of course, there are exceptions (some don’t mind or even like cleaned coins) but that is a very good rule to follow! A coin that has been cleaned loses both value and desirability to most collectors. Please feel free to correct any mistakes you see and add any other information you think might help those new to this amazing hobby!!!![/QUOTE]
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