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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Log Potato, post: 2165117, member: 26787&quot;]Start here.&nbsp; <a href="https://www.davidlawrence.com/books/the-complete-guide-to-barber-halves/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.davidlawrence.com/books/the-complete-guide-to-barber-halves/" rel="nofollow">https://www.davidlawrence.com/books/the-complete-guide-to-barber-halves/</a> Best book available on the series.&nbsp; A bit outdated for pricing, but the other information is still very relevant.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also, along with TomB&#039;s article psted above, here is an article by Peter Shireman who currently has the Number #1 set at PCGS.&nbsp; <a href="http://www.hlrc.com/articles/BarberHalvesPeterShireman.pdf" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.hlrc.com/articles/BarberHalvesPeterShireman.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://www.hlrc.com/articles/BarberHalvesPeterShireman.pdf</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Lastly, join the fraternity.&nbsp; <a href="http://www.barbercoins.org/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.barbercoins.org/" rel="nofollow">http://www.barbercoins.org/</a>&nbsp; I own all but about 7 back issues of the journal, so if you are ever looking for something, I am sure I can find it.</p><p><br /></p><p>My advice?&nbsp; Find some Barber collectors to lean on.&nbsp; Even before buying.&nbsp; Set your collecting goals (grade, condition etc.)</p><p><br /></p><p>When you are ready to buy, don&#039;t buy junk, cleaned or damaged coins. (unless that&#039;s your thing.&nbsp; Wouldn&#039;t be very challenging though)&nbsp; Don&#039;t be afraid to pay up for the super nice tough dates.&nbsp; And knowing those dates ties into leaning on other collectors.</p><p><br /></p><p>Kind of a quick post, but hopefully it was helpful.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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