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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Aberlight, post: 412044, member: 6510&quot;]I own several SLQ&#039;s and before purchasing the coin I copied the picture and enlarge it through Photoshop as well as checking for Autolevel enhancement. This is a good trick to get a better idea of the actual coin. I was a little concerned with what I originally figured to be a weak struck reverse as the edge of the wing did not seem like wear that would be consistent with the obverse. As soon as the coin came out of the envelope the obverse stood out as whizzed and once I turned over the coin it was even worse on the reverse. </p><p><br /></p><p>Without a loop I noticed the whizzed surfaces and under a loop it looked as if the whizzing was done with a soft brass wheel on a dremel rotary tool.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Needless to say I wouldn&#039;t have taken the chance if a return policy wasn&#039;t allowed, but the seller did return my money promptly along with S&amp;H both ways.</p><p><br /></p><p>This new seller is something else. I hope it doesn&#039;t sell, but odds are eventually it will sell to a new collector that will not realize it is whizzed and although the newest buyer may initially enjoy it, there will come a day where they realize that the coin isn&#039;t original.</p><p><br /></p><p>As I mentioned earlier the trick with copying and enlarging as well as changing brightness/contrast can determine a good buy from a bad buy. Three or four years ago I bought a 1835 rainbow Bust 25c that had pictures which were dark and from a distance. I enlarged the photo for a better view, Hue saturation provided a better idea of the color pattern to determine if it was AT, and changing contrast levels enhances nicks, scratches, and wear. The 1835 25c was purchased for $200 and now resides in a NGC MS61 Holder.</p><p><br /></p><p>This was my best purchase off Ebay, but overall this trick has helped me from buying a lot of junk. Maybe this technique will help some of you.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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