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<p>[QUOTE="Leadfoot, post: 881916, member: 2972"]Kanga, </p><p><br /></p><p>If you are struggling with proof coins or lustrous coins, and are using a 60mm lens, it's the length of lens yeilding a working distance from the coin too small to allow flexibility in light position. If I were you, I'd look to at least a 100mm lens, and preferably 150 or more. It will get you farther away from the coin, allowing a more flexible (i.e. higher angle of incidence) light position and result in MUCH better coin shots, in my experience (having owned/used a 60, 90, 105, 150, and now a 200mm macro lens).</p><p><br /></p><p>I think you will find axial lighting doesn't work well with non-raw coins (i.e. the slab reflects the axial lighting causing a general lack of contrast in the resulting shot).</p><p><br /></p><p>Regardless of my preconceptions, good luck with your experiments, and please do keep us updated on your results...Mike[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Leadfoot, post: 881916, member: 2972"]Kanga, If you are struggling with proof coins or lustrous coins, and are using a 60mm lens, it's the length of lens yeilding a working distance from the coin too small to allow flexibility in light position. If I were you, I'd look to at least a 100mm lens, and preferably 150 or more. It will get you farther away from the coin, allowing a more flexible (i.e. higher angle of incidence) light position and result in MUCH better coin shots, in my experience (having owned/used a 60, 90, 105, 150, and now a 200mm macro lens). I think you will find axial lighting doesn't work well with non-raw coins (i.e. the slab reflects the axial lighting causing a general lack of contrast in the resulting shot). Regardless of my preconceptions, good luck with your experiments, and please do keep us updated on your results...Mike[/QUOTE]
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