Autofocus Adapter for Nikon?

For macro photography, I have a Nikon D90 body, which has a built-in autofocus motor, but I use an older Nikon Micro-NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8 Lens that is manual focus only.

Auto focusing is a pain as I have it mounted on a copy stand and I have to do the focusing through the live preview, which is a poor quality video stream. I can sort of tell generally if it is in focus or not, but in order to fine tune the focus I need to repeatedly take pictures and evaluate them. Basically a guess and check, then repeat. This is too time consuming.

I have read there are autofocus adapters for manual lenses that have come out in the last few years. Has anyone used one they could recommend for my setup? Or possibly some other option I hadn't considered?

 

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I manually focus EVERYTHING with my setup. It too is on a copy stand and I have no other option than to manually focus as I am using a bellows system. I use the Nikon Camera Control 2 software to tether the camera to my computer. This allows Live View where I can zoom in and fine tune my focusing on a larger screen. If I recall correctly, you can zoom in during Live View on the back of the camera as well. So if tethering to your computer is not an option, then zooming in on the back of your camera is your best option.

 

I am using Live View, it's just extremely blurry. I can grossly see what the shot will look like but it's not clear enough to tell if the fine tune focus is correct until I snap the photo and check it.

 

Manual focus is the rule for me too, and I don't know of an exception. I don't use the Live View to focus, either. I look through the eyepiece. If you want to use the camera's autofocus features to assist you, there's probably an in-focus indicator in the viewfinder that will tell you which way to turn the lens barrel. You may find, however, that it does not give you an optimal picture. If the viewfinder is too small, you might benefit from a viewfinder magnifier.

I have the 105/4 Micro Nikkor, and it had a peculiarity that has actually helped me get good focus -- longitudinal chromatic aberrations on out-of-focus highlights. I have the camera mounted on a macro focusing rail, and if I see a red fringe on the edge of a letter, I turn the focusing knob in one direction, and the other direction for a blue fringe. No fringe and it's in focus (or very obviously blurry). I don't know if the 105/2.8 has this "feature." I imagine it doesn't, as it is totally different construction from the 105/4, which has the same optics as Nikon's 105/4 short mount bellows lens. My 200/4 doesn't do this.

 

I use a Beseler CS-14 for my copy stand. It's fairly bulky and I have it on a very sturdy PA rack. The setup doesn't really allow me to be able to look into the eyepiece or view finder. I might be able to do it if I could move the setup, but the USB cable is rather short, and I have had no luck getting it to work with an extension. All I have had to go on is the Live View.

Don't get me wrong, all of this works quite well right now and I'm able to take beautiful photos. What I would like to do is reduce the time it takes to photograph a single coin. With a toddler and another baby due in a couple weeks, my free time is extremely limited. Anything I can purchase that would shave some time would be welcome.

 

I do believe you are correct with the in-focus feature. I think it's a green dot that lights up in the viewfinder when the camera senses that the subject under the active focusing spot is in focus. I don't know if it has focus direction indicators though.

 

The viewfinder indicator light points are very interesting. Since I can't really see the viewfinder well from my setup (the camera is very high up), I have the screen turned off. Perhaps I can rig up a small mirror to see the viewfinder while focusing, and then cover the mirror during the shot.

 

I have a 15 foot USB 3 active extension cable attached to my Nikon USB cable. This may be an option for you. The active extension cables supply power to help boost the transmission of the data.

Here's the USB extension cable that use. They have a USB 2.0 as well.

https://www.amazon.com/CableCreatio...&keywords=active+usb+2.0+extension+cable&th=1

 

I'm not sure about Nikon, but Canon makes a right-angle viewfinder that also has a switch to magnify the viewfinder image. I haven't used mine as much as I expected, but I should probably try it for my coin-shooting setup, especially with the new camera.

 

Nikon does in fact make a right angle viewfinder. There are also some 3rd party manufacturers. I used to use one with my Nikon D300 back when I was shooting a lot more landscape images. I have yet to buy one for my D800E. But those are a good option as well.

 

Other options to make your D90 easier to use (A long time ago I used to have a D70, then D7000, D600/750/500 etc etc).

Have you looked into a 90 degree view finder attachment. That will let you look into the viewfinder at a 90 degree angle. I'm not sure how you look at the LCD from what height, it may help or not.

I don't know (haven't looked it up) if your lens is a Pre-AI, AI or AI-S lens but normally the manuals for the camera bodies and lenses have an nausiating, in-depth compatibility chart with them.

You may have to use the "non cpu lens" and enter your lens parameters for better compatibility.

It's down on page 230ish but doesn't like that lens specifically although I only quickly perused it.
https://cdn-10.nikon-cdn.com/pdf/manuals/kie88335f7869dfuejdl=-cww2/D90_en.pdf

edit: here's some more ==> https://www.nikonians.org/reviews/nikon-slr-camera-and-lens-compatibility

 

Rockwell (ugh) actually has some good info about this range of lenses and various camera bodies ==> https://kenrockwell.com/nikon/105mm-f28.htm

I use one for my D750/D7200 and D500 (different models) from time to time. But with the tilting LCD screens now and better Live Views it doesn't get used much.

 

About 2 years ago I bought my ex-girlfriend a Nikon D7100 with a macro lens with auto focus. It took amazing photos. Very detailed photos. I miss that camera more than her. lol I don't miss her at all. lol

 

The Nikon DR-6 right angle viewer looks like a good option for your application. There are others that are less expensive, but get mixed reviews.

 

Yeah based on the above posts I was already checking out the DR-6. Looks like I could probably get this to work with a little rearranging. However, man the DR-6 is pricey at around $200. That's way more than I paid for my lens. Looks like I can get a good condition one on eBay for about half of that.

According to the reviews for the DR-6, many people who got 3rd party models were disappointed and ended up getting the DR-6 in the end. The 3rd party ones were around $50 ish, which isn't too much cheaper than a used DR-6.

 

Yeah, B&H sells a few used ones for roughly $130, but it looks like you can easily beat that on eBay. Make sure you get the one with the rectangular viewfinder fitting, as it also comes for round viewfinders. Strange they use the same model number for both. Bonus is that it includes a 2x viewfinder magnifier, which would be great for manual focusing.

 

I assume you’re talking about Techart (or the similar) adapters? They definitely exist but are for cameras with significantly shorter focal flange distances (mirrorless). It’s rather difficult to adapt other same-format mounts to Nikon due to the long focal flange distance, at least while retaining infinity, but there are the exceptions (medium format glass, Leitax adapters, etc). Unfortunately, I’m not aware of any such adapters (those you asked about) for Nikon F.

 

I picked up a "like new" DR-6 right-angle viewer last night. Thanks all for the suggestions.

 

Cool! Be sure to report on it once you've had a chance to play for a while.

 

Since all of my coins are in slabs I have found that autofocus does NOT do the job.
The camera focuses on the slab's surface rather than the coin's.
I also have a Nikon D90 but my lens is an AF-S Micro NIKKOR 60mm 1:2.8 G ED.
And I'm operating at a lens/object distance of about 5 inches.
That causes additional focusing problems which demands that I focus manually.