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<p>[QUOTE="edteach, post: 25391118, member: 85141"]I think your post is a bit too broad. I can determine some forgeries. I have collected Third Reich and some Japanese WW2 militarily for many years. You want to talk about forgeries. Try to find a knights cross of the iron cross that is not a fake. Anything SS is so forged one has to go in thinking its a forgery and prove its real first. BTW, I collect American Civil war, WW1 and 2 items including USSR items. I don't want anyone to think I have some love of any of these vanquished regimes. Its pure history for me. I can tell if coin looks like its cast. For me these are the easiest to tell. Pock marks, seams and the lack of detail. Even some of the coins that are strikes are many times too sharp. After that it gets a bit harder. </p><p><br /></p><p>I have yet to learn the depth of some fakes. I assume and I believe I am correct the more expensive the coin the higher the quality of the fake will be. That is how it works in my other collections. My first confederate notes were fakes. This was before the internet. I ended up calling Grover Criswell who at that time was the most knowledgeable. Somehow I found his phone number and called him in Salt Springs Fla. He could tell by my description the notes were fake. I ended up meeting him at his home and buying some notes that I still have from him. </p><p><br /></p><p>So I have a level of being able to spot fakes but I will need to learn more. As far as eBay goes I only buy or have only bought low level coins that look good to me. So Gordian the 3rd Antoninianus is a good example and I look for the distortions in the strike such as the flowing of the metal when struck, this will to me indicate it was stuck. Also the cracking of the metal where the stress of the strike was too much. It does not make it real but it does indicate it was stuck. Then there are the contemporary fakes which from what I have gleaned from here is a base metal with a type of precious metal plate. Even if I think a coin is real I will post it here to get the collectors who have been in this for a long time, to get their opinions. </p><p><br /></p><p>Personally I do like slabbed coins, from reputable dealers. This gives me two levels of getting an original coin. By posting it here I can get even more.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="edteach, post: 25391118, member: 85141"]I think your post is a bit too broad. I can determine some forgeries. I have collected Third Reich and some Japanese WW2 militarily for many years. You want to talk about forgeries. Try to find a knights cross of the iron cross that is not a fake. Anything SS is so forged one has to go in thinking its a forgery and prove its real first. BTW, I collect American Civil war, WW1 and 2 items including USSR items. I don't want anyone to think I have some love of any of these vanquished regimes. Its pure history for me. I can tell if coin looks like its cast. For me these are the easiest to tell. Pock marks, seams and the lack of detail. Even some of the coins that are strikes are many times too sharp. After that it gets a bit harder. I have yet to learn the depth of some fakes. I assume and I believe I am correct the more expensive the coin the higher the quality of the fake will be. That is how it works in my other collections. My first confederate notes were fakes. This was before the internet. I ended up calling Grover Criswell who at that time was the most knowledgeable. Somehow I found his phone number and called him in Salt Springs Fla. He could tell by my description the notes were fake. I ended up meeting him at his home and buying some notes that I still have from him. So I have a level of being able to spot fakes but I will need to learn more. As far as eBay goes I only buy or have only bought low level coins that look good to me. So Gordian the 3rd Antoninianus is a good example and I look for the distortions in the strike such as the flowing of the metal when struck, this will to me indicate it was stuck. Also the cracking of the metal where the stress of the strike was too much. It does not make it real but it does indicate it was stuck. Then there are the contemporary fakes which from what I have gleaned from here is a base metal with a type of precious metal plate. Even if I think a coin is real I will post it here to get the collectors who have been in this for a long time, to get their opinions. Personally I do like slabbed coins, from reputable dealers. This gives me two levels of getting an original coin. By posting it here I can get even more.[/QUOTE]
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