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Authentic VS. Counterfeit 1914 D Lincoln
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<p>[QUOTE="snaz, post: 724088, member: 11315"]In this thread I will try my best to point out a few differences between a counterfeit, and an authentic Lincoln 1914 D.</p><p>(authentic pictures courtesy of <a href="http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=352&Lot_No=5300" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=352&Lot_No=5300" rel="nofollow">Heritage</a>)</p><p><br /></p><p>The 09 S VDB and the 1914 D are coins that someone would usually give a full examination. Whereas the 31 S, I feel is a coin that is so readily available in high MS grades, that someone might overlook this coin and not inspect it as closely as they should. (In another upcoming thread)</p><p>The 1909 S VDB can be read about <a href="http://www.cointalk.com/t73746-2/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/t73746-2/">here</a>. There are several obvious tells that this coin is a counterfeit, feel free to chime in with comments and questions.</p><p><br /></p><p>The 1914 D on the other hand I feel could pass as authentic alot easier then the S VDB.</p><p>Here is a large photo of the Obverse of a 1914 D counterfeit. When I first pulled it out of the package I felt it was fairly well done, and the improperly mixed planchet makes it look like a woody, and easily hides the grainy cast look.</p><p>The genuine example should weigh in at 3.11 grams, whereas this counterfeit example weighs in at 3.09 grams.</p><p>Very close!</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Obverse.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Upon closer inspection of the lettering and date on the coin you can easily see the "grainy" look you find on cast coins. If you're not quite sure what you're looking for, look all along the rim on both pictures. Just above the words, and just below the rims. You can see how it looks grainy and uneven. That is the "cast" look. The letters and numbers aren't clear and crisp like you would expect on an authentic coin.</p><p><br /></p><p><u><b>COUNTERFEIT</b></u></p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/EPLURIBUSUNUM.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/INGODWETRUST.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><b><u>AUTHENTIC</u></b> 1914 D MS 66RD NGC </p><p>Hammer price:</p><p><span style="color: Sienna"><u>25,875.00</u></span></p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/AUTHENTICINGODWETRUST.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Although the amount of "wear" on the Obverse, compared to the "wear" on the Reverse is not uniform. It isn't really something that would worry someone that is hunting for this key date. Although the Reverse Dies are generally used longer then the Obverse Dies, the 1914 D Obverse is always lacking more detail then the reverse.</p><p>The picture with black is a counterfeit example, and the white background is the MS 66 example.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Obverse.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Authentic14D.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Reverse.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Authentic14DREV.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>The last thing is the mintmark. The genuine mintmark will sit in a little bit of a depression from the displacement of metal when teh mintmark was struck. The counterfeit examples won't. Here is a close up of the Counterfeit, then the genuine date and mintmark.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/dateandmintmark.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><img src="http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/AUTHENTICDATE.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="snaz, post: 724088, member: 11315"]In this thread I will try my best to point out a few differences between a counterfeit, and an authentic Lincoln 1914 D. (authentic pictures courtesy of [URL="http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=352&Lot_No=5300"]Heritage[/URL]) The 09 S VDB and the 1914 D are coins that someone would usually give a full examination. Whereas the 31 S, I feel is a coin that is so readily available in high MS grades, that someone might overlook this coin and not inspect it as closely as they should. (In another upcoming thread) The 1909 S VDB can be read about [URL="http://www.cointalk.com/t73746-2/"]here[/URL]. There are several obvious tells that this coin is a counterfeit, feel free to chime in with comments and questions. The 1914 D on the other hand I feel could pass as authentic alot easier then the S VDB. Here is a large photo of the Obverse of a 1914 D counterfeit. When I first pulled it out of the package I felt it was fairly well done, and the improperly mixed planchet makes it look like a woody, and easily hides the grainy cast look. The genuine example should weigh in at 3.11 grams, whereas this counterfeit example weighs in at 3.09 grams. Very close! [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Obverse.jpg[/IMG] Upon closer inspection of the lettering and date on the coin you can easily see the "grainy" look you find on cast coins. If you're not quite sure what you're looking for, look all along the rim on both pictures. Just above the words, and just below the rims. You can see how it looks grainy and uneven. That is the "cast" look. The letters and numbers aren't clear and crisp like you would expect on an authentic coin. [U][B]COUNTERFEIT[/B][/U] [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/EPLURIBUSUNUM.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/INGODWETRUST.jpg[/IMG] [B][U]AUTHENTIC[/U][/B] 1914 D MS 66RD NGC Hammer price: [COLOR=Sienna][U]25,875.00[/U][/COLOR] [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/AUTHENTICINGODWETRUST.jpg[/IMG] Although the amount of "wear" on the Obverse, compared to the "wear" on the Reverse is not uniform. It isn't really something that would worry someone that is hunting for this key date. Although the Reverse Dies are generally used longer then the Obverse Dies, the 1914 D Obverse is always lacking more detail then the reverse. The picture with black is a counterfeit example, and the white background is the MS 66 example. [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Obverse.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Authentic14D.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Reverse.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/Authentic14DREV.jpg[/IMG] The last thing is the mintmark. The genuine mintmark will sit in a little bit of a depression from the displacement of metal when teh mintmark was struck. The counterfeit examples won't. Here is a close up of the Counterfeit, then the genuine date and mintmark. [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/dateandmintmark.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh261/snaz101/AUTHENTICDATE.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
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Authentic VS. Counterfeit 1914 D Lincoln
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