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<p>[QUOTE="red_spork, post: 2289394, member: 74282"]Whenever I get this question, my answer is generally "because I've spent a lot of time studying these and I believe it is genuine". If it's someone I honestly believe is interested in discussing it, I will go into things like die matches I know of(I usually look at the ANS, British Museum, RBW, etc and record what I find), style, fabric, mineral deposits, provenance, etc. I usually spend a while looking over coins I am considering buying and doing the basic research, regardless of their source, to try to figure out if the style, weight, etc is consistent and check that it doesn't match any known fakes. Then, usually within a week of getting the coin in-hand it gets catalogued and goes under the microscope to look for signs of casting, tooling, etc and I also look for die matches in collections online. After that, usually once or twice a month, I take all my recent purchases and spend a few hours seeing if I can find any provenance that wasn't originally supplied and verify any provenance that was given(and record any die matches I find in old catalogs). At the end of all this, if anything has changed I print new tags and replace the original ones I catalogued with. In a few cases I've contacted various experts on specific types as well looking for more info. At the end of the day, this process convinces me of a coin's authenticity, or lack thereof, and the results are a little different for every single one in my collection so there is no "one size fits all" answer to the question but most people don't care enough to hear about every single little detail so they get the summary above.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="red_spork, post: 2289394, member: 74282"]Whenever I get this question, my answer is generally "because I've spent a lot of time studying these and I believe it is genuine". If it's someone I honestly believe is interested in discussing it, I will go into things like die matches I know of(I usually look at the ANS, British Museum, RBW, etc and record what I find), style, fabric, mineral deposits, provenance, etc. I usually spend a while looking over coins I am considering buying and doing the basic research, regardless of their source, to try to figure out if the style, weight, etc is consistent and check that it doesn't match any known fakes. Then, usually within a week of getting the coin in-hand it gets catalogued and goes under the microscope to look for signs of casting, tooling, etc and I also look for die matches in collections online. After that, usually once or twice a month, I take all my recent purchases and spend a few hours seeing if I can find any provenance that wasn't originally supplied and verify any provenance that was given(and record any die matches I find in old catalogs). At the end of all this, if anything has changed I print new tags and replace the original ones I catalogued with. In a few cases I've contacted various experts on specific types as well looking for more info. At the end of the day, this process convinces me of a coin's authenticity, or lack thereof, and the results are a little different for every single one in my collection so there is no "one size fits all" answer to the question but most people don't care enough to hear about every single little detail so they get the summary above.[/QUOTE]
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