Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Inspector43, Sep 26, 2021.
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Looks like you've got it to me, especially on the obverses. Just my thoughts but I'm not much of a photographer.
@Evan Saltis I have the same problems.
You can! Practice makes perfect.
A lot of trial and error sometimes but you can get good shots with most cameras with experimentation.
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
I usr the white ceiling of my room to reflect the light back down on the coin from above. This reduces the 'hot spots' you can get from a direct light bouncing off the surface.
I went into some detail about this in my ASE postings on how I manages to reduce almost all glare. Like this:
Thanks, I remember that post and liked the ideas.
Thanks. That was one of my issues also. I had to change the technique some. The Date is difficult to capture on these. I think I have it now.
I crop them and combine them using PhotoScape X. Then Store them in separate files. These will go into "ASE Bullion Set". I back them up as electronic files.
I keep my coin pictures filed in directories by denomination, type, then the coins.
For file names, I use date, mint, type, composition, variety if known, and weather it is a proof or not. for the reverse, I use the same format but add the number 1 to it to tell me it is the reverse. A number 2 and so on if I have close-ups of same coin.
1960 LMC Cu Proof Small Date
1960 LMC Cu Proof Small Date1
Or This for Eisenhower Dollars:
1976-S IKE Silver Proof Type I
1976-S IKE Silver Proof Type I1
Separate names with a comma.