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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;satootoko, post: 135139, member: 669&quot;]No, it means that cast counterfeits typically have grainy surfaces, but surface appearance will not in and of itself detect other types of counterfeits.&nbsp; The point all the posters are trying to make my friend, is that in coin collecting knowledge is king, and if you want to personally authenticate your inheritance, you have years of study ahead of you.</p><p><br /></p><p>The consensus here is that you probably have counterfeits but the only way to be certain is to obtain opinions from experts who can see the actual coin, not a photo or scan of it.</p><p><br /></p><p>Another test that can demonstrate that they are fakes, but can&#039;t demonstrate that they are real, is measurement. <ul> <li>A genuine TD will weigh 27.22 grams +/- an almost indetectable variance. An&nbsp; <u>accurate</u> scale with at least a .01g tolerance is needed.&nbsp; (Most jewelry stores have such scales).</li> <li>A genuine TD will be 38.1 mm across +/- zero if the reeding is intact.&nbsp; An accurate caliper is the best way to measure, but a fairly accurate method is to make two pencil marks exactly 38.1mm apart and see if both are barely visible when the coin is centered between them.</li> </ul><p></p><p>Inaccurate diameter (usually a little oversize), or inaccurate wieght (commonly several grams underweight) is 100% proof that the piece is a fake.&nbsp; Accurate diameter and weight merely mean that further tests are needed.</p><p><br /></p><p>If this all sounds complicated, that&#039;s why I said years of study are necessary to become a real expert.</p><p><br /></p><p>Good luck, and don&#039;t blame grandpa if he got suckered, as I strongly suspect he did. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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