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Anybody have an idea on the grading and value
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<p>[QUOTE="lordmarcovan, post: 3671771, member: 10461"]Yes, that is just a regular business strike (NON-proof) dime struck at Philadelphia (and a damaged, "roadkill" example, at that), and as such, it is worth exactly ten cents. Face value.</p><p><br /></p><p>The <i>valuable </i>1968 dime with no mint mark is a <i>proof</i>. Proofs were struck only at San Francisco that year, and should have gotten "S" mintmarks, but some didn't.</p><p><br /></p><p>Once you're accustomed to seeing modern proof coins of this era, the difference is obvious, but this "business strike versus proof" thing does trip up a lot of uninitiated new collectors.</p><p><br /></p><p>A proof is struck under extra pressure and will have very squared-off edges, and a deeply mirrored surface, because they were manufactured that way, in an entirely different process.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="lordmarcovan, post: 3671771, member: 10461"]Yes, that is just a regular business strike (NON-proof) dime struck at Philadelphia (and a damaged, "roadkill" example, at that), and as such, it is worth exactly ten cents. Face value. The [I]valuable [/I]1968 dime with no mint mark is a [I]proof[/I]. Proofs were struck only at San Francisco that year, and should have gotten "S" mintmarks, but some didn't. Once you're accustomed to seeing modern proof coins of this era, the difference is obvious, but this "business strike versus proof" thing does trip up a lot of uninitiated new collectors. A proof is struck under extra pressure and will have very squared-off edges, and a deeply mirrored surface, because they were manufactured that way, in an entirely different process.[/QUOTE]
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Anybody have an idea on the grading and value
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