Any Tips for Taking Better Photos of Coins?

Correct. if OP wants AF-AutoFocus he will have to have Nikon AF-S identified lenses. Other manufacturers have other nomenclature.

The newer AF-P lenses are *not* fully compatible with his D3100 either.

I use a D750 and D500 which I can use AF/AF-D lenses (which I have many) for AutoFocus or not.

 

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The wackiest adapter I've seen for the Sony E-series is the Canon EOS (EF lenses) adapters which WORK FULLY, exposure and autofocus both.

 

Which one/brand? I've debated on taking this route, but experiences seem to vary.

If you want to look into a truly wacky yet wonderful adapter, check out TechArt and it's clones if you'd like to turn those Leica lenses into AF.

 

Commlite AF Auto Focus Mount Adapter (mit tripod socket)

 

Interesting... I was half expecting you to say the $400-$500 MetaBones versions. Have you used the Commlite, and if so, may I ask which lenses?

Also, perhaps I should have added this last time in case unfamiliar...

http://techartpro.com/product/techart-pro-leica-m-sony-e-autofocus-adapter/

 

Hmm interesting topic.

My setup is rather simple compared to some I have seen.

My camera is a Canon Eos T3. I use the 18-55mm macro lens with tube extenders for shooting coins. The biggest Issue I have had is lighting. Finally broke down and ordered some Jansjo lights and have been very happy with em.

The above photo was taken using the 18-55mm lens with a 22 mm tube extender.

The photo below was shot with same lens but with both my 11 and 22mm tube extenders.
I also have a 33 mm tube extender I use for really close-up shots.

I do have to adjust the distance of my camera to the coin with these, but I made a ghetto copy stand for this reason.

 

If your camera /lens has auto focus, be sure it is in 'spot' mode, so the sharpest focus is where you want to show. Some have a small box or circle to indicate the focus center. Also take the photo straight on, as even a small angle will make part fuzzy.

 

For macro work, I really would recommend manual focus, and 2 stops up from wide open (usually a lens's sweet spot).

I'm using a Canon 50D, and was using the Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro (Non USM, Non-L). I recently switched over to the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4, as the Canon had way too much CA. So bad in fact, that some thought one of my coins had verdigris, but it was the green CA. The Micro-Nikkor has not had any CA issues, and I'm enjoying it so far.

I also have a Mamiya 120 A Macro, and have yet to try and use that for coins. Maybe that'll be something to do tonight. I'm just thinking it may have too much working room, but we'll see.

I've also played around with different light sources. I'm one of the oddball guys that will use flash for coins. I have a Sunpak ringlight with an angle light, and that's been the best for showing luster, but can blow out the highlights. A few months ago I started using 2 $5 LED desklamps from Walmart, and they have been quite satisfactory.

I have a few coins I've been meaning to re-shoot, so maybe tonight I'll run some experimental shots with different lenses and lighting.

 

I'm curious why this thread hasn't attracted the attention of @jtlee321 ?

Oh wait, that outta do it....

 

Interesting... that's quite the lens to have laying around unused. I'd be very interested to see how things turn out and to learn of your impressions.

Just curious, but you wouldn't have a blog, would you?

 

No, no blog.

For a long time analog photography, and the accumulation of analog photo equipment was my hobby of choice. I got burnt out though. I had a preference for Mamiya stuff, and still have quite a bit laying around.

My thought on the 120mm is that because it's made for medium format, if I use it on 35mm/APS-C format, I'll be utilizing only the best area of the glass, so there shouldn't be any edge distortion, as the edge will be way outside the image area.

We'll see.

 

I'm surprised this is the only mention of white balance on this thread. No matter what kind of lenses or cameras you use, your white balance needs to be right. On most DSLR cameras this can be adjusted right on your camera. If you have not done this I suggest you do. This will adjust your camera to your lights. If you are using a camera where the white balance can not be manually adjusted, I would suggest you find a program that will do this for you in editing. Gimp has a really easy to use white balance checker for instance, and is free to DL and use.

I know most cameras have an Auto white balance feature, but this is more useful for taking photos outdoors when the lighting keeps changing. However when using your camera under fixed lighting like we do, adjusting your white balance to your lights will produce better looking more accurate shots.

 

For me, all that goes without need to mention it.

 

Well me to, but the OP did ask for tips and you would be surprised at how many people don't know about white balance and it's importance in photography.

 

In the film days, shooting coins meant short stacks of Kodak Wratten gelatin filters to perfectly balance the lights' color.

 

The sweet spot, I understand.

Perhaps this may interest you....

https://mbphotox.wordpress.com/2016/01/17/mamiya/amp/

 

I use my cell phone. Mine come out very, very nice. Early morning light when it is overcast and provides naturally diffused lighting. This way you can be directly over the coin and not leave shadows. Really shows detail. Then keep moving to slightly different angles. Here are a couple of my examples.

1979 Nickel on Cent Planchet (MS65RB)

1978 Quarter on Nickel Planchet (MS65)

1943 D/D (MS65)


1937-D 3 Legs (AU55 CAC)


And for those who say cell phones can't capture luster, check out this beauty 1923 Peace Dolllar (MS65)

 

So if anyone was wondering...

I did a shootout between the Canon 100mm macro, Nikon 105mm Micro, and the Mamiya 120mm Macro.

Center image was identical between the 3 as far as I could tell - so no lens outperformed the others at that image section, and all as sharp as would be expected.

However, the Mamiya was the clear winner outside of the center. Only the Mamiya retained the details of the flow lines at the edge of the coin.

But I do think that all 3 gave satisfactory, and usable images.

These are top center, very close to the image edge.

 

LOL, sorry, I've had a really long day today. I did see this thread this morning before I left, but I did not get a chance to reply. I just got home and will be adding my 2 cents after a little while.

 

All of the above images are 100% crops, with only auto adjustments to the .raw file (as well as the image below).

And because @*coins was asking about mint marks, here's the MM of a dime that was handy (ie, pocket change), with the Mamiya lens -