Any Tips for Taking Better Photos of Coins?

I'm still working on my photography skills, but what I find works well for me is A) to use daylight B) diffused through a soft filter such as a curtain or even tissue to even out the spread of lighting, C) either a steady hand or a mounted setup for your camera, and D) make sure your macro setting is on (usually a flower symbol on your camera).

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

It would help a ton if you could just get a larger image in the frame - either getting closer or getting a longer lens (or bellows). You're needing to crop out a ton of white pixels on those images, let alone wanting to just show the date.

 

Anyone know if there is a way to take close-ups with a digital camera? It's just a regular Canon camera. I can take close-ups with it, but have to get co close that it is really dark after I take it. Also, does taking photos through a loupe work? I've seen a lot of people do that, but it never looks like it helps any.

 

For macro work (Nikon calls it Micro), you don't really need autofocus. For static subjects, manual focus is going to be better.

This is a listing to the lens I use (not my lens), but any of the micro-nikkors will do (55mm, 105mm, etc). They all will do what you want them to do.

As for the Canon, it depends on the camera. Sounds like it's a point & shoot, and I would not recommend them for the type of images you're looking to produce.

 

Understaters Anonymous. "Hi, my name is Beefer, and I'm an understater."

 

In my opinion, the number one requirement for good coin photos is holding the camera steady. If you try to take close-up shots hand-held, it's basically a matter of taking dozens of shots and hoping one comes out sharp. "Image stabilization" doesn't help much when you're shooting close.

Once you have some sort of stand for your camera, you can experiment with longer exposures, which helps with your "too dark" problem. You can also learn to dial in the focus precisely.

 

I'm going to slightly disagree with you @-jeffB - with enough light, you can hand hold. But realistically, yes, a tripod is necessary.

And @*coins - photography can be a very slippery slope, especially when you're entering into macro or astronomy.

 

Thanks for all of the info, @Beefer518. I really appreciate it.

 

Keep in mind your lens has a "Minimum Focus Distance" which is about 0.28 m/0.9 ft for 18mm. If you get closer than that they you cannot focus on the coin properly.

This is why one recommends a long Macro lens such as the Nikon 105mm macro, or Tamron 90mm Macro. Although the Nikon 105/2.8 AF-S VR will cost new about $700 (not the newer and more expensive 105/1.4), and the Tamron 90 is about $500. Used would cost less too. Those are only 2 examples of many out there for Nikon.

 

Aside from a solid camera and macro lens, I'd invest in a couple solid lights. Then as others have mentioned, the background behind the coin is key, and for me it is chosen on a coin by coin basis. Whatever material it is, it needs to not be reflective. Then it just depends on the coin- for a bright uncirculated war nickel I'll start with a white background. For a gun metal circulated bust half or dark seated dime, I'll start with grey. Take some shots changing nothing but the background and it's amazing how different the results are.

Then it's all about the lighting- daylight plus luster= usually crappy looking results. With circulated pieces I just try to match the average in-hand look- if all I see is every tiny mark and the coin looks way worse than it does in hand, I likely over-exposed it, etc.

My background is in recording audio sources and it's a lot like photography. Before I ever set up a microphone, I listen to the source. If it doesn't sound good (look good in coin photography) I change/move things until it does. Then I place the microphone (camera lens) where my ear (eye) was, and capture that perspective.

Once you have solid pictures going on, use image software to crop the coins (if you care to) and fine tune settings until it looks closest to the way it does in hand. Tread very lightly here, one digit parameter moves at a time as a little goes a long way.

I'm no photography expert but figured I'd share my methods as I've come to a place where I'm happy with my photos even if they aren't up there with the pros here, and I'm just using a canon powershot digital camera with a macro function enabled.

Grey background when photographing:

White background when photographing:


Daylight on my countertop when photographing (it just worked and was closest to the in-hand look):

 

Anybody here ever monkey around with any of the Sony E-mount macro lenses? Or should I go adapter with my Canon FD f4 100mm Macro? I have the extension tube also. Or should I just go with a bellows and stop the compromises? I also have the 50mm f.3.5 Micro-Nikkor.

 

For coins or other purposes? Also, and mostly out of curiosity, full frame or APS-C?

I have used the 90/2.8 although not extensively. While a fine lens, I doubt it's worth the money unless it would be something used for more than just coins. I haven't used the 50 FE or the 30 APS-C though.

Although not used for coins, I have adapted a few different macros (1:1 and 1:2) and have experienced no issues whatsoever. Personally, if still shooting coins I would probably go bellows, but is just me.

 

Answers:
1) Coins
2) APS-C

I have a Leica R adapter on my Amazon wantlist. I have a 400mm Leica R lens. I let a 60mm Leica R bellows lens slip through my fingers. "Regrets? I've had a few, but then again..."

 

Then I doubt you'd want to drop over a grand on the 90/2.8, or even $500 on the 50/2.8, both of which are FE. The 30/3.5 (APS-C) goes 1:1 natively and is half the price of the 50, but I doubt you'd find a 45mm equivalent sufficient for said purpose.

If adapting your macros, I'm guessing infinity isn't much of a concern, so you wouldn't be rolling the dice with a cheap adapter (which often allow focusing past infinity). RainbowImaging, the company that sells many via Amazon fulfillment, has their own website where order above $15 supposedly receive free shipping and most adapters run from like $3-$8, but I haven't personally taken this route and cannot speak to the reliability. Still, even ordering from Amazon you should be able to get an FD/Nex adapter for maybe $12-$15 (about the same for a basic Nikon/Nex) and would seem the obvious first choice. If not happy, you could always take the bellows route later and be out little to nothing.

And please don't tell me your 400 is the Apo-telyt-R 2.8.

The Telyt-R 400/5.6 and 400/6.8 seem both to be fine lenses as well, but probably goes without saying. I really miss Leica glass and at least once a month have to restrain myself from taking the plunge. I'd be all over that 400....

 

No, the Leica is the 5.6.

 

You should order the adapter, take a nice walk to the park, and wait for the police to arrive after some numbnuts reports you for having a bazooka.

 

I thought mama took that away.

 

Since folks are starting to recommend lenses, I just want to press the fact that there are a number of options, both Nikkor and third party and particularly if buying used, that will not have AF if used on the OP's camera. Again, this shouldn't be a big issue for macro work, but if he'd want to use the lens for other purposes it certainly can be. The D3100 does not have screw-drive AF capabilities and means any AF lens without an internal focusing motor will not AF on his camera. If memory serves me, for all sense and purposes he'd need to buy an AF-S lens (or third party equivalent) if he wants the ability to autofocus.

Unfortunately, while Nikon was wise (imo) to keep the F Mount alive, their camera and lens line up can be confusing and is why anyone with consumer-level camera considering lens options must be careful.

 

Thanks, @Lunchbox John. Those are amazing photos - I can't believe that you took those with a regular Canon Powershot. What editing software do you recommend? Also, did you change the backgrounds on some after you took the photo. You said that you took the one on your countertop, but the background is white.
What kind of lights/bulbs do you recommend?

 

It does have the whole pistolgrip and shoulder brace. It looks quite menacing.