An opinion and some free advice

I know that's not exactly what he said, that's why I placed the word almost in there.

Here's what he said:

 

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Sell the key date coins and be happy.

Use rarity numbers to set your price. Anticipate some coins will take a long time to move.

Dealers can't buy anything at retail. If they pay half retail they hurt. 1/3 retail is much preferred. This is true for any business from hardware to cars.

 

I think it is a real mistake to ignore what somethings sell for on Ebay when trying to figure out a value. True that Ebay defies averaging as one will go for a high price, then the next one gets sniped and goes for a ridiculously low price but, nevertheless, those are real world prices which someone just traded 'one of those' coins for.

Really, I understand why some hate Ebay. Simply put, it allows selling (or buying) with minimum overhead or hassle/costs. A risk of being took exists, but some nice buys exist. It also needs to be noted, when looking at 'population summary' on PCGS and clicking on 'shop,' where does PCGS dump us? Not into a Heritage auction or a member's coin shop, but right into Ebay.

 

But Doug, the REAL auctions you are talking about are for REAL coins, not low grade dreck or problem coins. For a collection that consists of low grade-problem coins, E-Bay might be the only source for prices realized at auction.

 

Since 'real' slabbed coins are being sold on Ebay, and Ebay can be just as pricey as some other places if you are unwary or 'must' have that particular one I can't see Ebay not being considered part of the real world.

 

Doug:

That's two cartoons in one day!

You are going wild.

 

He's becoming a wild and crazy guy Frank..........

 

How did he taste?

 

Almost thought you said beer!!!

 

Note to self: Don't approach doug with beer or you may get swatted with a fly rod.

I don't use prices from ebay - I use heritage to get a baseline for what some dealers are selling items for. Even if they are selling on heritage. Does not mean I don't look at ebay. And I like to compare quality of coin doing the best I can with images. Not all coins are overpriced on ebay, but quite a few of what I am looking for is.

 

PS - who caught more fish - you or the bear?

 

Since I said I was thinking about posting the inventory later in the thread and it seems that opinions are at an impasse without knowing the full contents of the bag, I've listed them below. I was really expecting to let this thread die, but it seems to have drawn some enlightened commentary since I last saw it. So here you go. Opine away. I will not be feeding the trolls.

edited - forum rules

This is not for sale at this time. I'm tired of dealing with it for the time being. I don't trust dealing with online auctions, much like the moderators here, apparently. But, I am interested in hearing the opinions of those with the experience as to how they would deal with trying to get the most dollar value out of what I've got here.

You say those were not for sale, but I don't know what else to call it when you list an entire inventory along with prices. Sorry, but our rules just do not allow that.

 

Personally I want to see the 1886 nickel.

 

Well, good luck getting 20 cents apiece for common date, G4 wheat cents. In bulk, they usually go for 6-10 cents each.

Some of your prices for the semi-key/key IHCs are also a bit high. For instance, the 1871's...I am looking at sold listings on ebay. I see VF-XF examples going for the price that you are asking for a VG, and G-VG examples sold for well under $100.

I also don't know how accurate your grading is. For all I know, you could be overgrading or undergrading your coins by 5 points.

Overall I think your asking prices for a lot of the coins seems a bit high for the grade, especially if you planned on selling to a dealer, who, let's remember, needs to make a profit on their purchases in order to run a successful business.