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An Illustrated Guide to VINEGAR DATING!
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<p>[QUOTE="hotwheelsearl, post: 2542639, member: 75143"]Ever wondered how to effectively vinegar date a nickel? Let’s see.</p><p><br /></p><p>First, a disclaimer. DO NOT ACID DATE IF THERE IS EVEN A PARTIAL DATE!!!!</p><p>A partial date coin will ALWAYS be worth more than an acid date coin. Only perform this trick if there is absolutely no way you can tell the date, and the coin is truly a slick. Even a bit of acid will immediately reduce the numismatic value of a coin by 90% or more. Common acid dated coins are sometimes worth less than slicks, so you may end up with a bunch of spenders. DO NOT DO THIS ON ANY VALUABLE COIN!</p><p><br /></p><p>Now that’s out of the way, here’s what to do.</p><p><br /></p><p>First, grab yourself a handful of slick Buffs. We all know that most P-mint Buffs are worthless regardless of year, so try getting some D’s and S’s in the hopes of getting a 1913-S TII or something.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545081[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Second, get some vinegar. I used apple cider vinegar but white vinegar works as well. I have had better success with apple cider, probably due to the citric acid that is present, but white WILL work if you don’t have any apple.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545082[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Pour your vinegar into a container or some kind, and then add hydrogen peroxide. Mixing the two will create a solution of peracetic acid, which I have found to be more effective than straight vinegar (acetic acid) in dating a coin. I don’t measure exactly, just pour *some* of each – maybe a bit more vinegar than peroxide, but I don’t think it matters too much.</p><p><span style="color: #ff0000">EDIT: <i>CAUTION</i>. Peracetic vapors can cause respiratory issues if inhaled in large amounts. Please do not soak your coins in an enclosed space. If possible, keep everything outdoors to minimize your exposure to this chemical.</span></p><p><br /></p><p>At first, the solution will look just like normal vinegar. However, once the nickels are added and some time has passed, it will change color. If you used apple, it will turn green. If you used white, it will turn a (beautiful) blue color.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545083[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>When the nickels start to form bubbles, that means that it’s working! The acid eats away at the surface layers of the metal, revealing fun stuff underneath.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545084[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>When you gaze into the bowl and find that you can sort of see a date, it’s probably done. It took me from 12:45 to 2:07, so around 1 hour 30 minutes usually does the trick.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545085[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]545086[/ATTACH]</p><p>Now, take your coins out of the solution, rinse with water (tap or distilled doesn’t really matter). This rinsing stage is important because failure to do so will yield some funky looking discoloration (think REALLY bad artificial toning). Rinse well with water, and then set aside to air dry.</p><p><br /></p><p>Congratulations! You’ve now acid dated Buffalo nickels!</p><p><br /></p><p>From my 6 coins I used in this example, I found:</p><p>1916-S x2</p><p>1917-D x2</p><p>1919-D</p><p>1925-S</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]545089[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545090[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>So I didn’t get anything super valuable, although the 1917-D’s are fairly expensive as far as Buffalo nickels go.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>This trick should work on anything made of nickel, including Shield, Liberty, 3 cent nickel, and Jefferson nickels.</p><p><br /></p><p>In fact, I did an experiment to see how a highly polished Shield would fare. I don’t like the polished look, so I thought that the acid would eat away at that layer, leaving a nice and dull nickel.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545091[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]545093[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Lo and behold, it worked!</p><p><br /></p><p>In fact, I have find that slick Shield nickels often provide the most beautiful and impressive results. I don’t have an example to show, but trust me when you can have a completely slick Shield that has as much detail as a F or VF coin after an hour in vinegar.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="hotwheelsearl, post: 2542639, member: 75143"]Ever wondered how to effectively vinegar date a nickel? Let’s see. First, a disclaimer. DO NOT ACID DATE IF THERE IS EVEN A PARTIAL DATE!!!! A partial date coin will ALWAYS be worth more than an acid date coin. Only perform this trick if there is absolutely no way you can tell the date, and the coin is truly a slick. Even a bit of acid will immediately reduce the numismatic value of a coin by 90% or more. Common acid dated coins are sometimes worth less than slicks, so you may end up with a bunch of spenders. DO NOT DO THIS ON ANY VALUABLE COIN! Now that’s out of the way, here’s what to do. First, grab yourself a handful of slick Buffs. We all know that most P-mint Buffs are worthless regardless of year, so try getting some D’s and S’s in the hopes of getting a 1913-S TII or something. [ATTACH=full]545081[/ATTACH] Second, get some vinegar. I used apple cider vinegar but white vinegar works as well. I have had better success with apple cider, probably due to the citric acid that is present, but white WILL work if you don’t have any apple. [ATTACH=full]545082[/ATTACH] Pour your vinegar into a container or some kind, and then add hydrogen peroxide. Mixing the two will create a solution of peracetic acid, which I have found to be more effective than straight vinegar (acetic acid) in dating a coin. I don’t measure exactly, just pour *some* of each – maybe a bit more vinegar than peroxide, but I don’t think it matters too much. [COLOR=#ff0000]EDIT: [I]CAUTION[/I]. Peracetic vapors can cause respiratory issues if inhaled in large amounts. Please do not soak your coins in an enclosed space. If possible, keep everything outdoors to minimize your exposure to this chemical.[/COLOR] At first, the solution will look just like normal vinegar. However, once the nickels are added and some time has passed, it will change color. If you used apple, it will turn green. If you used white, it will turn a (beautiful) blue color. [ATTACH=full]545083[/ATTACH] When the nickels start to form bubbles, that means that it’s working! The acid eats away at the surface layers of the metal, revealing fun stuff underneath. [ATTACH=full]545084[/ATTACH] When you gaze into the bowl and find that you can sort of see a date, it’s probably done. It took me from 12:45 to 2:07, so around 1 hour 30 minutes usually does the trick. [ATTACH=full]545085[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]545086[/ATTACH] Now, take your coins out of the solution, rinse with water (tap or distilled doesn’t really matter). This rinsing stage is important because failure to do so will yield some funky looking discoloration (think REALLY bad artificial toning). Rinse well with water, and then set aside to air dry. Congratulations! You’ve now acid dated Buffalo nickels! From my 6 coins I used in this example, I found: 1916-S x2 1917-D x2 1919-D 1925-S [ATTACH=full]545089[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]545090[/ATTACH] So I didn’t get anything super valuable, although the 1917-D’s are fairly expensive as far as Buffalo nickels go. This trick should work on anything made of nickel, including Shield, Liberty, 3 cent nickel, and Jefferson nickels. In fact, I did an experiment to see how a highly polished Shield would fare. I don’t like the polished look, so I thought that the acid would eat away at that layer, leaving a nice and dull nickel. [ATTACH=full]545091[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]545093[/ATTACH] Lo and behold, it worked! In fact, I have find that slick Shield nickels often provide the most beautiful and impressive results. I don’t have an example to show, but trust me when you can have a completely slick Shield that has as much detail as a F or VF coin after an hour in vinegar.[/QUOTE]
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An Illustrated Guide to VINEGAR DATING!
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