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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;desertgem, post: 1483434, member: 15199&quot;]Actually, Nitrile gloves are not recommended for acetone exposure. They rank below latex ( which are ok for small exposure ) and pvc gloves which are about equal. Butyl rubber is preferred. I use bare hands as I don&#039;t lounge in it.</p><p><a href="http://amo-csd.lbl.gov/downloads/Chemical Resistance of Gloves.pdf" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://amo-csd.lbl.gov/downloads/Chemical Resistance of Gloves.pdf" rel="nofollow">http://amo-csd.lbl.gov/downloads/Chemical Resistance of Gloves.pdf</a></p><p><br /></p><p>Also using acetone removes water from the surface of the coin, if you rinse them with water of any kind, it is providing substance to futher chemical reaction. Use acetone and&nbsp; suspend vertically to dry. There are some threads on using acetone with different sequencial baths if you are doing a lot of coins. If you are doing just one, use fresh acetone and hold it vertical so all dissolved &quot;uglies&quot; drain off. </p><p><br /></p><p>if you use outdoors, evaporation will remove the acetone vapors ( don&#039;t run the outdoor grill next to it) and even in Reg. rich Calif, acetone can be released into the air. Just don&#039;t set yourself or possessions on fire. Shot type glasses work fine for containers doing many coins at a time. After you are done, dump all acetone not still in the can unless you have a glass or metal container with a proper sealing lid ( metal or resistant plastic ). Ask a local chemistry teacher if they have a spare bottle.&nbsp; No water rinse! Ask the chemists on the forum!&nbsp; <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Jim[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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