Am I too picky about WLH coins?

My son turned me on to Walking Liberty Halves some time back, and I've been adding to his collection since then. But I've come across many that I didn't like due to their condition. Let me show you what I mean.
I like this coin, and the main thing I like about it has to do with the head detail of Liberty. I can tell there is a mouth, eyes, and a nose, all pretty well-defined.

Now compare that to this next coin of mine.


I'm just going to show the obverse because I tend to focus on the head. This coin is not the worst that I've seen, but to me the head just looks mushy. I don't mind it too much, but I wish it was better.

When I go to coin shows, auctions, and my club meetings, I always look at these coins, and the majority of them have even more worn heads than this one. I would get them because they do help complete my collection, but I don't because of the loss of detail in the head. Is this just common on these coins?

So, am I being too picky? I don't have a lot of money to spend on coins, but those I can afford don't have the sharpness I'm looking for. What do you all think?

 

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Know what you mean, I think the same about the standing liberty quarters.

 

There are two main issues at play:

1. There is considerable strike variation between dates and issues. Some are known for consistently good strikes, some are famous for their terrible strikes. Some dates just don't exist with all the details you might want.

2. You show coins of 2 different grades. If you want full details in the head, you're going to search for coins of at least AU. The second coin you post is probably more like EF.

And yes, searching for coins with full details and a strong strike is absolutely a good choice. Be selective, especially with common coins like late date Walkers. If you want to collect UNC coins, many Walker collectors look for full hand details, to include a full thumb. Those are the best struck coins.

 

You need to buy based on the condition of the coin and the value of it. You can't compare the way it looks when compared to a higher grade coin.

 

I myself fall into the post title. For me, it's a full split thumb or as close as possible, and bright mark-free fields. At least for those from 1935-1947. The earlier issues not so much as they become extremely pricey. So I settle on a nice fine/very fine equal in appearance to the one on either side. So far I'm assembling a nice, consistent looking set progressing from circulated to mint state. Not as easy as it sounds. So to answer your question? No you are not being picky.

 

I've been putting together a set for quite a few years and have settled for AU examples for several S mint issues simply because I could not find nicely struck examples. I couldn't bring myself to pay MS money for something that has the details of an EF/AU coin.

The other thing that really hurts the appeal of the series for me is the ASE. They are so well struck and represent what the WLH should've looked like.

 

Good move following the "never buy a coin you don't like" rule.

Over time, however, you'll find that some dates, such as 40-S, usually have really bad detail, even on uncirculated coins. A well-struck 40-S won't have the same detail as a well-struck 43.

 

Explain to me the difference between the condition of the coin and how it looks. To me, the way it looks depends on the condition of the coin.

 

Like you, an EF coin wouldn't excited me. I do like the ASE coins, but they're too contemporary.

 

This is what I'm trying to determine. I pass over WLH coins when I don't like what I see, but now I worry that I might not find anything better for the year I'm looking for. Maybe I should just go ahead and buy and worry about upgrading later. Then I think when will I ever get around to doing that.

 

The other thing you might consider is buying a guide book for the series. It will have information about strikes for each date, so you know if that is a date you will have a really hard time finding. I don't recommend "settling" for a subpar coin - instead, once you know the weakly struck dates you can try to find one that is well struck for the date. It might not have as much detail as a well struck date, but it will be a good coin for the issue.

I'd recommend this book: https://www.wizardcoinsupply.com/th...uarters-and-liberty-walking-half-dollars.html

 

I'll second that book recommendation. While you're waiting for it to arrive, go to PCGS Coinfacts and read the narratives by David Hall, who knows a thing or two about these, at the bottoms of the pages for each date and mint. Between that and the Red Book, you'll have enough insight about the series to create a collecting plan and make very informed purchases.

 

Good idea. I think that might help me determine what I'm looking for. I guess what I'm seeing at coin shows and auctions just isn't measuring up to what I want, and I'm wondering if that's just the way it is.

 

The Walking Liberty Half Dollar is indeed a beautiful coin and one can never be too selective in the coin they want to acquire. In the 1938-1947 issues, I lack only a 1938-D and a graded 1941-S. All the coins I do have are mint state, graded through 1941 and then raw through 1947. The strikes during the Second World War are notoriously poor, with the poorest being those from San Francisco. It takes longer in the end, but in this case patience is a virtue.

 

That looks like a good resource, thanks.

 

You’ve gotten good advice on strike variation already, so I’ll just add my opinion of the 2 coins you posted. Though the reverse of the second coin is missing, I think they are both fine coins given that the second is clearly lower grade than the first. The only thing I don’t like is the huge black spot near the rim at 4:00 on the second coin. Otherwise, they both look like original coins that have done their duty in circulation, and I don’t have a problem with good, honest wear.

 

If you want well struck WLHs with sharp details, focus on the proofs of 1936-1942.

 

Careful with these, though. These dies were brutally polished to make the proof finishes we know and love. The problem isn't in Liberty's head and thumb for these, but in the low-relief part of the design, such as the flag, right hand, gown where it meets the field, and eagle's lower right wing. The "no AW" variety of the 1941 proof, with the initials missing from the reverse, is more common than the version with the initials because of this polishing. Here's the 1941 I eventually bought.



Here's what you often get in a 1941 proof (both CoinFacts images)



On both of these, it looks like the edge of the flag near the I in LIBERTY was actually retouched by hand. This happens a lot on other low-relief design elements on proofs, such as the forward edge of Lincoln's coat, the ribbon in Jefferson's hair, lower strands of Franklin's hair. For what a proof Walker costs, I want one that's all there.

 

Yeah, I didn't post the reverse because I tend to concentrate on the obverse, where I think the details are more important and finer. Maybe that's the wrong way to look at it, but for these coins, the obverse is important to me.

I'll post the full coin later.