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<p>[QUOTE="Eps, post: 1522208, member: 39876"]How many rolls do you have, if you have five or more, than open one and check them for a date/mm aNd return them to bank. No one wants individual uncirc 2012 penny's! Until at least 2112. I get both plastic and paper rolled cents so if yours are paper, if there is a back or front of a 2012 penny on both ends of the roll than they are uncirc. 2012 penny's. No one prefers toning on rolls of new penny's, the reason most buy them is to check for errors in uncirc condition. Only the end penny's will get toned unless airtight sealed. Also, wheats( unless VERY good condition) dolnt need two by twos, I have found like 400 wheats searching for like two months, and keep all average ones in a plastic box, not anything special. If you find a 1887 nickel like I did though than that's worthy of a 2x2. May I ask how much you pay for them, and do you have any plastic flips?[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Eps, post: 1522208, member: 39876"]How many rolls do you have, if you have five or more, than open one and check them for a date/mm aNd return them to bank. No one wants individual uncirc 2012 penny's! Until at least 2112. I get both plastic and paper rolled cents so if yours are paper, if there is a back or front of a 2012 penny on both ends of the roll than they are uncirc. 2012 penny's. No one prefers toning on rolls of new penny's, the reason most buy them is to check for errors in uncirc condition. Only the end penny's will get toned unless airtight sealed. Also, wheats( unless VERY good condition) dolnt need two by twos, I have found like 400 wheats searching for like two months, and keep all average ones in a plastic box, not anything special. If you find a 1887 nickel like I did though than that's worthy of a 2x2. May I ask how much you pay for them, and do you have any plastic flips?[/QUOTE]
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