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<p>[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4998253, member: 112673"]I can adjust my lights in 1/10 stop increments. I've shot enough coins to pretty much know where to set the lights to start, within a 1/3 stop or so, for each coin. Generally, I need only a couple of shots to dial in the exact exposure. Importantly, I have my camera tethered to my computer, and I shoot through Lightroom, which applies my colour calibration settings for my lighting set up to every image as it's shot, and I can immediately review my histogram info too, on a colour calibrated monitor, so I can quickly nail down the exposure. Personally, I shoot in manual for many reasons, but with coin photography because I don't need to know, or care what my camera's meter reads. That may sound shocking. My camera's meter is irrelevant. I set my ISO to the best speed possible to give me the best image. I set my Aperture to f14 for the best clarity and depth of field. I set my shutter speed to the fastest sync possible to eliminate shake and movement. The only remaining exposure variable is the amount of light coming into the lens, and that's controlled by me, not the camera. At that point, the camera's meter is unnecessary. I adjust the light until the exposure is what I want to see, given my camera's ideal preset parameters. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>You do need to adjust every shot. Every coin is different. With your method you're still metering and adjusting every shot, you're just letting the camera's auto mode make exposure decisions for you, and manually correcting the cameras inaccuracies.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Here's ten reasons why I would recommend you shoot RAW.</p><p><br /></p><p>1. When you shoot in RAW you record <i>all</i> of the data from the sensor. This gives the highest quality files. Look at it this way: all cameras<i> technically</i> shoot RAW. The difference when you shoot in JPEG format is that the camera does its own processing to convert the RAW information into a JPEG. You get what it thinks is right. However, your camera doesn't really know what you want, nor is it as powerful as your brain and computer. When you shoot RAW, you have access to all the data so you can make processing decisions on how the image should really look, and you will produce much better results.</p><p><br /></p><p>2. JPEG records 256 levels of brightness and RAW records between 4,096 to 16,384 levels. This prevents posterization, which is the banding that you often see in graduated color areas.</p><p><br /></p><p>3. You can easily correct dramatically over and under exposed images. This gives you a lot of exposure latitude if you need it, but it's not an excuse to make poor exposure decisions. </p><p><br /></p><p>4. When you shoot JPEG the white balance is applied to the image. With RAW the white balance is still recorded, but because you have all the data, it’s completely adjustable. You mentioned you're concerned about colour shift with your lights when you turn them up? Not a problem if you shoot in RAW. Twiddle with the lights to your hearts content and correct it in RAW. You will want to tweak this more often than you’d think.</p><p><br /></p><p>5. When you shoot RAW you have access to sharpening and noise reduction algorithms that are more powerful than those found in your camera. Very important for quality coin photography. When and where you apply sharpening is equally important. </p><p><br /></p><p>6. When you make adjustments to a RAW file, you’re not actually doing anything to the original data. JPEG files lose quality every time you open them, make adjustments, and save again. So, if you’re making edits to JPEGs you always have to be duplicating the image and saving out a new version if you don’t want to lose file quality. No such problem with RAW files. Editing is non destructive. </p><p><br /></p><p>7. Because of the finer gradation of tones and colours you’ll get better prints from RAW files. This may or may not be an issue for you, but if you have customers, it probably is. </p><p><br /></p><p>8. There are different colour spaces that work best for different situations, and when you shoot RAW you can export a single image in multiple spaces. Again, this may or may not be an issue for you, but if you have customers, it probably is.</p><p><br /></p><p>9. It’s easier to work through large batches of images when you’re using a workflow centric program like Lightroom or Photoshop. I use a lot of PS actions for coin image processing and I have a thread here on Coin Talk where I discuss them. </p><p><br /></p><p>10. It’s the Pro option. Professionals only shoot in RAW for all of the reasons above, and more. Not just coin photographers. All photographers. </p><p><br /></p><p>By shooting RAW you take control of your image processing. This is something you should want.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4998253, member: 112673"]I can adjust my lights in 1/10 stop increments. I've shot enough coins to pretty much know where to set the lights to start, within a 1/3 stop or so, for each coin. Generally, I need only a couple of shots to dial in the exact exposure. Importantly, I have my camera tethered to my computer, and I shoot through Lightroom, which applies my colour calibration settings for my lighting set up to every image as it's shot, and I can immediately review my histogram info too, on a colour calibrated monitor, so I can quickly nail down the exposure. Personally, I shoot in manual for many reasons, but with coin photography because I don't need to know, or care what my camera's meter reads. That may sound shocking. My camera's meter is irrelevant. I set my ISO to the best speed possible to give me the best image. I set my Aperture to f14 for the best clarity and depth of field. I set my shutter speed to the fastest sync possible to eliminate shake and movement. The only remaining exposure variable is the amount of light coming into the lens, and that's controlled by me, not the camera. At that point, the camera's meter is unnecessary. I adjust the light until the exposure is what I want to see, given my camera's ideal preset parameters. You do need to adjust every shot. Every coin is different. With your method you're still metering and adjusting every shot, you're just letting the camera's auto mode make exposure decisions for you, and manually correcting the cameras inaccuracies. Here's ten reasons why I would recommend you shoot RAW. 1. When you shoot in RAW you record [I]all[/I] of the data from the sensor. This gives the highest quality files. Look at it this way: all cameras[I] technically[/I] shoot RAW. The difference when you shoot in JPEG format is that the camera does its own processing to convert the RAW information into a JPEG. You get what it thinks is right. However, your camera doesn't really know what you want, nor is it as powerful as your brain and computer. When you shoot RAW, you have access to all the data so you can make processing decisions on how the image should really look, and you will produce much better results. 2. JPEG records 256 levels of brightness and RAW records between 4,096 to 16,384 levels. This prevents posterization, which is the banding that you often see in graduated color areas. 3. You can easily correct dramatically over and under exposed images. This gives you a lot of exposure latitude if you need it, but it's not an excuse to make poor exposure decisions. 4. When you shoot JPEG the white balance is applied to the image. With RAW the white balance is still recorded, but because you have all the data, it’s completely adjustable. You mentioned you're concerned about colour shift with your lights when you turn them up? Not a problem if you shoot in RAW. Twiddle with the lights to your hearts content and correct it in RAW. You will want to tweak this more often than you’d think. 5. When you shoot RAW you have access to sharpening and noise reduction algorithms that are more powerful than those found in your camera. Very important for quality coin photography. When and where you apply sharpening is equally important. 6. When you make adjustments to a RAW file, you’re not actually doing anything to the original data. JPEG files lose quality every time you open them, make adjustments, and save again. So, if you’re making edits to JPEGs you always have to be duplicating the image and saving out a new version if you don’t want to lose file quality. No such problem with RAW files. Editing is non destructive. 7. Because of the finer gradation of tones and colours you’ll get better prints from RAW files. This may or may not be an issue for you, but if you have customers, it probably is. 8. There are different colour spaces that work best for different situations, and when you shoot RAW you can export a single image in multiple spaces. Again, this may or may not be an issue for you, but if you have customers, it probably is. 9. It’s easier to work through large batches of images when you’re using a workflow centric program like Lightroom or Photoshop. I use a lot of PS actions for coin image processing and I have a thread here on Coin Talk where I discuss them. 10. It’s the Pro option. Professionals only shoot in RAW for all of the reasons above, and more. Not just coin photographers. All photographers. By shooting RAW you take control of your image processing. This is something you should want.[/QUOTE]
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