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<p>[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4987413, member: 112673"]Agreed, mostly. I have taken many perfectly good coin images with nothing but underlighting and effectively placed reflectors, particularly with proof coins, but generally, save the back lighting for artistic applications like this.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1198144[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>rmpsrpms, I know you've done a lot of excellent work, but I don't understand the reasoning behind this comment. Why would I want to set my exposure based on the background instead of the subject? The background in the raw file is irrelevant in the final image. It should be added in post production. Seems to me only the correct exposure of the subject matters. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I can understand why you might want to do this if you like to present your coins on a black background, but it's something I don't recommend. I've tried both, and IMO, use a matte white card to scatter residual light around the edges of the coin. This make your edges much more detailed, with greater texture and depth, like the image below. (I should stress this works perfectly in my set up, but you need to see it if will apply to yours.)[ATTACH=full]1198155[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>This also makes your images more versatile for application on any colour or type of background. From a professional perspective, this is valuable. I've found ultra absorbent black backgrounds kill detail in the edges of your coins, which is not surprising, as it's designed to do that. Your goal should not be to get both the coin and background in the same exposure because getting one correct will always be at the expense of the other. Just worry about matters; the coin, and add the background later. That's what pros do. The image below was shot on white and placed on black. The edge along the bottom half of the coin was intentionally darkened to better blend with the background. This was an artistic choice made because I was using the image on black. I wouldn't need to do it on white. See my thread for using the Bevel & Emboss tool for coin edge lighting for any application. </p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1198172[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>My disclaimer to my comments here is that I'm using professional quality studio strobes, diffusers and colour management tools for my images, so my advice and work flow are based on the use of this kind of equipment and software. While this is the Advanced Coin Photography thread, it might not be applicable to everyone.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4987413, member: 112673"]Agreed, mostly. I have taken many perfectly good coin images with nothing but underlighting and effectively placed reflectors, particularly with proof coins, but generally, save the back lighting for artistic applications like this. [ATTACH=full]1198144[/ATTACH] rmpsrpms, I know you've done a lot of excellent work, but I don't understand the reasoning behind this comment. Why would I want to set my exposure based on the background instead of the subject? The background in the raw file is irrelevant in the final image. It should be added in post production. Seems to me only the correct exposure of the subject matters. I can understand why you might want to do this if you like to present your coins on a black background, but it's something I don't recommend. I've tried both, and IMO, use a matte white card to scatter residual light around the edges of the coin. This make your edges much more detailed, with greater texture and depth, like the image below. (I should stress this works perfectly in my set up, but you need to see it if will apply to yours.)[ATTACH=full]1198155[/ATTACH] This also makes your images more versatile for application on any colour or type of background. From a professional perspective, this is valuable. I've found ultra absorbent black backgrounds kill detail in the edges of your coins, which is not surprising, as it's designed to do that. Your goal should not be to get both the coin and background in the same exposure because getting one correct will always be at the expense of the other. Just worry about matters; the coin, and add the background later. That's what pros do. The image below was shot on white and placed on black. The edge along the bottom half of the coin was intentionally darkened to better blend with the background. This was an artistic choice made because I was using the image on black. I wouldn't need to do it on white. See my thread for using the Bevel & Emboss tool for coin edge lighting for any application. [ATTACH=full]1198172[/ATTACH] My disclaimer to my comments here is that I'm using professional quality studio strobes, diffusers and colour management tools for my images, so my advice and work flow are based on the use of this kind of equipment and software. While this is the Advanced Coin Photography thread, it might not be applicable to everyone.[/QUOTE]
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