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<p>[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4911703, member: 112673"]Nice work with the set up. I enjoyed watching the video.</p><p><br /></p><p>I noticed in the image you posted, your “results” shot, there seems to be a slight greyish tone over areas of it. I don’t know if the image has been edited or not.</p><p><br /></p><p>This is what I’m talking about.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1184892[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>I mention it because it looks familiar. I have seen this kind of “greying” before with coins and I’m wondering if your image has the same kind of issue I’ve experienced. This may not seem like a problem, or even worth mentioning, but I think it might be improved.</p><p><br /></p><p>Let me show you what I mean. Below is a Canadian pre-confederation coin I shot recently. This image was taken with axial lighting, set as static axial lighting, with the glass plate at a 45 deg. angle, parallel to the light. The same way you have your rig set up, though mine doesn’t have a back light. I don’t recommend it for axial lighting. You may notice a similarity to the kinds of greyish tones on face of your coin, as you see here, though my coin is much darker, so the increased contrast makes it more obvious. The more coins you shoot, the more often you will see this situation, so you might as well know how to deal with it.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1184893[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>This coin image is right out of the camera, and it may even look fine as it is. It’s sharp, and well defined. It is a dark brown coin, but it appears more grey than brown here. It doesn’t look like the coin when it’s in my hand. I found that this greyness is coming from the light pointing straight down on the coin, combined with whatever the surface of the coin is. This “greying” occasionally happens with some coins under static axial lighting conditions.</p><p><br /></p><p>Fortunately, most coins don’t have any issues with this. Unfortunately, as I learned, and you will too, this can't be fixed with static axial lighting, but it can with my system.</p><p><br /></p><p>I found that if I take just a few seconds and rotate the glass about 60 degs left, or right while I’m looking through the view finder I can watch as the light falling on the coin shifts from straight down to angled, and the dull greyness disappear. The deep, rich brown tones of the coin become clear. I’m still lighting the coin, but not directly down anymore.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1184894[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Personally, I almost never keep the glass in the static axial lighting position. It is usually the worst angle for glaring reflections off the coin. This is not always true, but far more often than not.</p><p><br /></p><p>May I suggest you also try rotating the glass and see what happens with your coin? You will need to increase your exposure by about 2/3 to 1 stop when you do. I think if you do, you’ll find a greatly improved image, with more colour depth.</p><p><br /></p><p>...more like this</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1184901[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>For reference, the same situation applied to all of the images below, and changing the glass angle, in various amounts, solved the issue for all of them. This is just one of the many benefits of my “overly complicated” system.</p><p><br /></p><p> [ATTACH=full]1184895[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1184896[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1184897[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Denis Richard, post: 4911703, member: 112673"]Nice work with the set up. I enjoyed watching the video. I noticed in the image you posted, your “results” shot, there seems to be a slight greyish tone over areas of it. I don’t know if the image has been edited or not. This is what I’m talking about. [ATTACH=full]1184892[/ATTACH] I mention it because it looks familiar. I have seen this kind of “greying” before with coins and I’m wondering if your image has the same kind of issue I’ve experienced. This may not seem like a problem, or even worth mentioning, but I think it might be improved. Let me show you what I mean. Below is a Canadian pre-confederation coin I shot recently. This image was taken with axial lighting, set as static axial lighting, with the glass plate at a 45 deg. angle, parallel to the light. The same way you have your rig set up, though mine doesn’t have a back light. I don’t recommend it for axial lighting. You may notice a similarity to the kinds of greyish tones on face of your coin, as you see here, though my coin is much darker, so the increased contrast makes it more obvious. The more coins you shoot, the more often you will see this situation, so you might as well know how to deal with it. [ATTACH=full]1184893[/ATTACH] This coin image is right out of the camera, and it may even look fine as it is. It’s sharp, and well defined. It is a dark brown coin, but it appears more grey than brown here. It doesn’t look like the coin when it’s in my hand. I found that this greyness is coming from the light pointing straight down on the coin, combined with whatever the surface of the coin is. This “greying” occasionally happens with some coins under static axial lighting conditions. Fortunately, most coins don’t have any issues with this. Unfortunately, as I learned, and you will too, this can't be fixed with static axial lighting, but it can with my system. I found that if I take just a few seconds and rotate the glass about 60 degs left, or right while I’m looking through the view finder I can watch as the light falling on the coin shifts from straight down to angled, and the dull greyness disappear. The deep, rich brown tones of the coin become clear. I’m still lighting the coin, but not directly down anymore. [ATTACH=full]1184894[/ATTACH] Personally, I almost never keep the glass in the static axial lighting position. It is usually the worst angle for glaring reflections off the coin. This is not always true, but far more often than not. May I suggest you also try rotating the glass and see what happens with your coin? You will need to increase your exposure by about 2/3 to 1 stop when you do. I think if you do, you’ll find a greatly improved image, with more colour depth. ...more like this [ATTACH=full]1184901[/ATTACH] For reference, the same situation applied to all of the images below, and changing the glass angle, in various amounts, solved the issue for all of them. This is just one of the many benefits of my “overly complicated” system. [ATTACH=full]1184895[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1184896[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1184897[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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