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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;jtlee321, post: 4605165, member: 73983&quot;]So the shots that are of the full coin, I shoot with a four light setup.&nbsp; The lights are the Jansjo lights from Ikea.&nbsp; My camera is mounted vertically on a copy stand with a bellows and focus rail.&nbsp; My lens is the Rodenstock APO-Rodagon D 75mm reproduction lens.&nbsp; I use a black velvet display tray with a black rubber stopper (of various sizes depending on coin size) raising the coin off the background.&nbsp; That ensures that light falloff and depth of field allow the background to stay nice and dark and out of focus (that makes it easier to crop the coin out of the background).&nbsp; Editing it very minimal and limited to levels, hue/saturation and sometimes color balance.&nbsp; I edit the images to match the in hand look under my viewing lamp.&nbsp; I use a calibrated monitor to make sure that the image I see is as accurate as possible.</p><p><br /></p><p>The images of the coins that are shot at an angle are simply leaning against the same rubber stopper and setup to the angle I want.&nbsp; With the high magnification stuff, I am basically limited to using 2 lights as my working distance is so short.&nbsp; I take anywhere from 10 to 50 images depending on how deep I need the depth of field for the final image.&nbsp; All images are shot RAW and processed and saved as TIFF files and imported into Helicon Focus for stacking.&nbsp; The resulting image is saved as a TIFF file and imported back into Photoshop for final editing and cropping.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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