Message:

<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Insider, post: 2775019, member: 24314&quot;]jeffB, posted:&nbsp; &quot;There&#039;s <i>always</i> room for more resources! Still waiting for time on a good X-ray free-electron laser to date &quot;dateless&quot; Buffalos without etching them, and to see if anything can be recovered from dateless SLQs.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>It may work as the designs of a coin continue into their interior.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now for some humor before posting more:&nbsp; I sent out three dateless AG buffalo nickels to a young fellow and he returned them to me with a note that he had the &quot;holes&quot; for those three dates already filled! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie11" alt=":rolleyes:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>Next.&nbsp; I should have PM&#039;ed certain posters about neutralizing a coin.&nbsp; The comments in this thread &quot;rubbed me the wrong way&quot; due to something going on at work and I revealed too much as a way of &quot;smacking down&quot; what I took as some dangerous misinformation. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie14" alt=":angelic:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Oldhoopster, posted: &quot;I suggested the avoiding the baking soda solution to simplify the process.&nbsp; For people without experience in a Chem lab setting, the less chemicals to play with, the less chance of making mistakes.&nbsp; <u>Thorough</u> rinsing in distilled water should dilute and wash away any remaining thiourea and sulfuric acid, particularly in the concentrations found in commercially available dips.&nbsp; (De-ionized water would probably be better, but most people don’t have access to it).</p><p>If you’re doing precision dips for very short periods of time or with higher concentrations of active chemicals, then a baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) solution should neutralize the H2SO4 a little faster than ordinary rinsing.&nbsp; I don’t know if it has any effect on the thiourea reaction with the silver (where are those chemists when you need them [USER=33176]@Kentucky[/USER]), but the baking soda solution probably just rinses it off.&quot;</p><p>If you&#039;re new to playing with chemistry, you probably don’t need to use baking soda AS LONG AS YOU RINSE AND DRY THOROUGHLY. Keep it simple IMO.&nbsp; If you have the chem lab or coin conservation experience (Dr. White&nbsp; for example), then you probably know when to use a neutralizing solution.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>Baking soda in solution is virtually harmless.&nbsp; A running water rinse does not neutralize the chemicals thoroughly.&nbsp; That&#039;s why so many silver coins are seen with <span style="color: rgb(179, 89, 0)">flowing brown stains</span> indicating improper rinsing.</p><p><br /></p><p>Bman33, posted: &quot;I was told that if any spots showing up from the acid would have revealed themselves by now.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>This is absolutely <b><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0)">FALSE</span></b> in most cases. It all depends on the environment as to when the stains will appear.</p><p><br /></p><p>Bman33 continued: &quot;I have several more silver Ikes to dip and experiment on!&nbsp; One question I had was the patting down with cloth after distilled water rinse.&nbsp; How do you do this correctly?&nbsp; I didn&#039;t use a specialty cloth, just a brand new one.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>Look, most coin dealers don&#039;t have the time, expertise, or even bother to dip coins properly.&nbsp; I worked for a dealer who dipped a dollar, dried it with a towel and sold it an hour later.&nbsp; No big deal.&nbsp; The same dealer dumped original BU silver quarters in a bucket of ammonia, ran water on them until the smell was gone and dumped them on to towels and dried the batch with more towels.&nbsp; What I&#039;m trying to say is that all the KISS methods are just that - improper and cringe worthy.&nbsp; No rags touch coins when you are a professional.</p><p><br /></p><p>mikenoodle, posted: &quot;I have used micro-fiber and soft terry cloth. Both work as long as you don&#039;t rub the surface.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>Sure it works...see above.&nbsp; Only thing, blotting coins leaves a residue.&nbsp; If you dry your coins like this it is best to finish off with an acetone dip!</p><p><br /></p><p>mikenoodle, posted: &quot;I agree that additional steps are overkill, Dave.</p><p>I also agree that rinsing in acetone will make the coin dry completely on its own, and typically spot-free.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>Keyword: &quot;typically&quot;&nbsp; <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>There are several ways to do things. Some work better than others.&nbsp; While some methods to dip a coin may be considered unnecessary and &quot;overkill,&quot; others may be inadequate or not suitable for professional conservation.&nbsp; Usually, over time or even by just looking at a coin when a collector has dipped it the truth of my statement will be obvious. </p><p><br /></p><p>Furthermore, I cannot believe <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie98" alt=":wacky:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> not one poster on this thread has <b>ever</b> seen acetone dry as a haze or spot on a coin after it was removed from a &quot;finishing&quot; dip.<img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie46" alt=":facepalm:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />&nbsp; I could post an image but I&#039;ll let you see for yourselves.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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