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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;-jeffB, post: 1991578, member: 27832&quot;]Outstanding work!</p><p><br /></p><p>If your camera supports &quot;custom white balance&quot;, you might be able to take a picture of a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_card" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gray_card" rel="nofollow">gray card</a> and set your white point that way; it&#039;s more reliable than automatic adjustments. Shoot the gray card, use that as your reference, and then anything you shoot under the same lighting will be rendered correctly.</p><p><br /></p><p>(I often see coins on eBay shot on a blue or red background. It usually throws the white balance off completely. I also see gold coins that have been auto-white-balanced to gray.)</p><p><br /></p><p>[USER=25547]@benveniste[/USER]&#039;s comments about spectra are spot-on. I would expect some forms of toning to look noticeably different under CFL vs. halogen or standard incandescent lighting. (Or vs. sunlight, for that matter). I&#039;m a big LED lighting enthusiast, but for the foreseeable future, LED light will always have a big blue spike and a broad spread from green through red, with a bit of a gap between them; I would expect blue-green toned areas to be muted as a result.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;ve wanted for a long time to run some experiments like the ones you show here. Thanks for sharing your results![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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