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Message:: [QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 819856, member: 16510"]This is good stuff and great information, I enjoyed it -  I will add only this: First let me say that I hardly understand all this science at all.  I come form the learned in life camp, brutal and informative but not overly technical.  I'm not without brains as I have one brother who graduated from MIT and the other who went to UT.  My father before he passed did say I was the wisest (of the three) though and a comment I will never forget. The subject of this anti-toning material is interesting but lacks a couple of things.  From what I have seen some coins tone and other do not.  This is true of proofs, silver, clad and all else in between except gold.  Ah you say but,,, - yes but it depends.  Humidity, cardboard, air, sulver etc.  Well we have humidity here as high as 110% and it's really something but what I always try to go by, (and this includes ever thread or responce on CoinTalk) is "what I see".  By that is what I see walk into these shops here, what I see come into the show each month, what I see that people bring me, what I buy.  The answer regarding toning "is some do and many don't" - so what is the reason, answer or safeguard as it relates to toning, ie: what is real, what is hype, what is needed or warrented??? When the "Intercept" stuff came out I thought at first, neat I should get some but never did and I am glad.  Why, because my coins have remained perfect after 16 years.  The only problem I have ever had storing mint state and proof coins (in regards to toning) is with a Dansco album for state quarters that I started (in 1999) and only them with the proofs esp. the proofs on the outer edge and the silver ones even more.  Those did tone and tone quick.  Why, because of the Album material, the silver coins, and the closeness to the edge (or more air availible) to them.I sold that junk though long ago.  All and any other proof silver or mint state coins (that I have had that long or longer) are perfect in 2x2's within 20 pocket pages in three ring binders in an open desk. My point (and I know I'm taking the long way around the barn with this) is, "I think some coins will tone and some will not"! This is why during the summer I talked and talked about the mystery regarding the new 2009 original composition Lincoln Cents toning so rapidly.  The proofs were found to be toned when they got to customers doors and the mint set ones are not holding up any better.  The mint has commented about this and glossed it over to some degree.  But why do we open up bank wrapped rolls from the 1950's that are still gem BU red, or memorials the same, whether they cme from Florida, Tenn. or Alaska???The answer is again, "some coins tone and some don't". So if "some coins tone and some do not" will any of the anti-corrosion methods work in the long haul with any really tangible results and my answer again has to be, "some will and some will not"! You see many times I think we fail to ask most important questions.It's not will this material prevent toning as much as it should be "is this a coin that has the natural tendency to tone or not tone"?  Intercept as not really been around long enought to satisfy the toning question and I suspect that folks who bought Intercept, (or other) anti-toning materials will be reluctant to admit if thier coins toned even in the anti-toning material thay bought.Although I cannot prove it (I wish I could) I think whether a coin will tone or not and if we can prevent it, will come down to a coins planchet production, striking process, anealing, washes and dozens of other things out of our control to begin with.  If that's the case we are fooling ourselves if we think we can prevent it in the first place. To sum it up, (and I'm sure any reading this will be glad) if I really wanted to prevent toning I would work very hard first at learning which coins tone and what coins do not.[/QUOTE]

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